IN A quiet pocket of Knightsbridge, just a stone’s throw away from Harrods, The Capital Hotel feels worlds away from the bustling crowds outside. Here, Tom Brown at The Capital, recently awarded a Michelin star, brings a refined approach to British cuisine, adding a fresh edge to one of the area’s most established addresses.
To any fine dining connoisseurs, Tom Brown’s arrival at The Capital Hotel makes complete sense. Having previously worked at the hotel as Head Chef at Nathan Outlaw’s eponymous restaurant, it seems to be a natural progression for the highly reputed chef.
Tom Brown
Before working at Outlaw’s, Tom Brown honed his craft across the South-West, working at various dining destinations, including Rick Stein’s, before meeting the Michelin-starred Nathan Outlaw. Initially, he worked at Outlaw’s at St Enodoc Hotel in Rock, where he climbed the ladder before moving to the London location.
Brown continued on a steady path of success with the opening of his own restaurant, Cornerstone, in 2018, located in Hackney Wick. It’ll come as no surprise that Brown was quickly awarded a Michelin star, and the restaurant thrived for six years.
With a background as strong as this, expectations were high heading into our visit to the restaurant. From the moment we arrived, it was clear those expectations would be met with ease.
The restaurant is intimate, with around 28 covers, further highlighting the exclusive feeling of dining at Tom Brown at The Capital. Interiors echo this atmosphere, with gentle lighting and leather seats adding further lustre.
Whilst the interiors exude tradition, the cuisine leans more contemporary. The menu is quietly inventive, demonstrating Brown’s thoughtful use of ingredients and general care for the environment. Standout dishes include the bream tartare with quail egg, radish, and soy, the Hereford beef with oyster, celeriac, and stout gravy, and the John Dory accompanied by white asparagus, spinach, and roast chicken sauce.
Hereford Beef
Trompettes
The menu remains produce-driven, a hallmark of Tom Brown’s cooking style. Responsibly sourced British fish, meat, and vegetables are allowed to shine, resulting in dishes that are fresh, seasonal, and vibrant.
During our visit, the chef’s attention to detail was immediately apparent. As we were seated, we were welcomed with a small serving of cold lobster and blood-orange aromatic broth, which set the tone for the rest of the evening. Shortly after, a bread course arrived. While restraint is recommended, the fluffy, warm Japanese shokupan with mussel butter makes that easier said than done.
Opting to try some à la carte options, we enjoyed our starters and mains, sipping on a deep red wine chosen by the expert sommelier and listening to the gentle hum of ambient music. Dessert here also shouldn’t go amiss – the 70% Xoco chocolate tart with mint ice cream and Fernet-Branca was a particular favourite, not too rich, but still plenty indulgent.
Concluding with a curated set of after-dinner confections, featuring a nori fudge unlike anything I’ve tasted before, our dining experience came to an end.
However, with such exciting flavour combinations, an innovative approach to cuisine, and superb attention to detail, I may well be returning to Tom Brown at The Capital sooner rather than later.
by Sophie Richardson
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