In Milan, ease goes mainstream for SS25

As the case for breezy tailoring continued apace, designers were blending safe artistry with commercial savvy. 


For the first men’s Collection designed by Creative Director Matteo Tamburini, high attention to craft reigns supreme in Tod’s wardrobe. Here, garments are distinguished by timeless elegance, exuding a modern appeal and a refined sensibility.

The outerwear features innovative treatments on luxurious linens, presented on both formal-inspired blazers and overshirts, as well as being lined with a membrane and heat-sealed, as seen in the Field Jacket, for a modern and high-performance attitude.

The Gommino, an iconic product and symbol of Made in Italy, is enriched with a new sabot version in natural colours. The bag collection features the Di Bag in the new sack version and in a wealth of canvas and leather variants, ideal for weekends and leisure time. The T Timeless world for this season is represented by the new shoppers and belts.

Henrik Vibskov

Harnessing the elegance of human empathy with the adaptive genius of the animal kingdom, Henrik Vibskov’s SS25 outing is inspired by the theme of hands; the ultimate symbols of assistance, compassion, and adaptability, exploring how hands signify more than just physical help; rather, they embody the essence of empathy, the ability to understand and share the feelings of others.

Titled The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance, the lineup comprises fluid silhouettes, morphed patterns, and versatile garments that embody the themes. By dissecting the classic check; a jacquard woven chequered fabric has morphed with ocean motifs, and in a chequered knit the pattern dissolves completely. 

Ten C

With functional elements that are part of the brand’s founding values, Ten C’s SS25 presentation stood out for the way it blends military inspiration with contemporary elegance hallmarked by curated, hand-crafted details. Alessandro Pungetti drew his inspiration from uniforms and their functionality, building on the research carried out for the Fall proposals.

The reinterpretation of the Aviator Flight Suit best represents the mood of the collection: a compelling fusion between the iconic aviators’ uniform and urban contemporary style. Starting from the structure and its functional features, Ten c adds details and design elements that make it wearable for everyday use.

Aluminium zips, which recall flight suits, add a touch of modernity and practicality to the garment, allowing for easy adjustment and an aesthetic that aligns with current trends.


With this season’s proposals, Santoni presents its ongoing commitment to creating marvels and transcending the every day through the constant elevation of craft and beauty. A commitment is notably present in the enduring icon of Santoni’s Double Buckle men’s shoe, which offers a

classic and refined line with hand-applied colour to the fine upper of hand-selected leather which is brought to a lustre through high finishing. Now updated for SS25 with patinas in the Infinito colour scheme while upholding the brand’s mastery of the Goodyear construction ensuring excellent performance. A lace-up is completed with the Santoni colour glaze in an oak tone with delightful broguing.


For Spring, Slowear takes a new spin and gets divided into four wardrobes, creating a cohesive thread between the garments and product categories. These stories encapsulate the season’s journey, showcasing a prominent return to high-quality materials as the standout feature and common element across the various facets of the collection.

The fabrics showcase rich, textural, and three-dimensional weaves, blending product durability—a core company mission—with notable distinctiveness. The colour palette is enhanced with natural and delicate pastel tones, emphasising the fabric and its texture.

Three special projects tailored for the modern man span across the wardrobe. Building upon the previous season, the exploration of modern tailoring continues, introducing new combinations and styles. An example of this is the casual suit by Incotex, which includes a dropped shoulder blazer that can be paired with tapered-fit trousers or a seamless model featuring refined, tailored construction.

John Richmond

Drawing inspiration from an endless personal exploration of subcultures, the collection illuminates the elements that have defined John Richmond since its inception. The confluence of people and places gives the clothing gravitas: From the inner parts of the venue, posters from the late 1970s music scene in London plaster the walls as a call-back to places like Blitz and Cha Cha Club.

The Northern Soul movement from the time inspired the season’s high-waisted wide trousers, nipped-in knit tanks, and embellished bomber jackets. 1980s influence gives way to rave culture with posters for acid house club Shoom, and Peter Saville’s original artwork for Hacienda: Punk and new silhouettes reign supreme, with exaggerated shoulders, DIY skirts, and even kilts adapting style cues from an anti-establishment aesthetic, favouring a freedom fighting ideology.

by Chidozie Obasi