In a Ten Magazine interview, Ann Demeulmeester, when asked if she is legendary, said, “Let’s ask this after I disappear one day…” Her SS14 Ready to Wear collection, with its emotional mystery is the sort of collection that could well announce that day. Granted, Demeulmeester is going nowhere. The veiled Amazons may be hiding – or shielding – themselves, but the detail and breadth mark a deceptively cohesive collection that speaks volumes. For a designer who considers her art her communication, this collection maintains that voice.
Inside a consistent, almost A-line silhouette, pattern and textiles range. Leather skirts are so stiff and nearly metallic, that they seem to be protective aprons. Dévoré flowers and the airy veils contrast in their lightness. Demeulmeester’s signature (and personal) rocker vibe works well with the studied, strong romanticism of bold Art Nouveau design. A dramatic redingote coat is similarly strong, worthy of its 18th century functional roots.
Images courtesy Style.com
by Alison Santighian