MILAN, ITALY — At a time when women are lusting over “uniforms” more than passing trends, it’s good to be bathed in novelty with a slightly traditional twist. A typical Italian alum has learned to hone a luxe, pared-down aesthetic since childhood, a style where clothing lends itself well to everyday dressing.
Autumn/ Winter 2026 finds designers experimenting with more personal details, though, where past collections and archival moments featured many elements across wardrobe offerings, tailoring and the clothes themselves leave ample room for styling while looking at the peculiarity of the modern day to inform a broader context. But there’s more to the story.
Sportmax AW26
Sportmax AW26
Sportmax AW26
Sportmax AW26
At Sportmax, a story of dynamism rules supreme: sleeves on a cotton button-down were extra long and fanned out around the wrists, for instance, and the volumes on a pair of longline wide-leg trousers were exaggerated, too. Soft ribbed knits could be layered on top of one another, while a grey box shoulder dress with inventive cocoons was worn over trousers. These staples were still fairly classic, but overall, they had a little more statement-making oomph compared to previous outings.
The results felt confident and purposeful: clothes are their own textural and graphic effect, sleekly deployed in body-skimming knits and jerseys, and part of a general paring back, a seeking for the essential in each silhouette. The collection’s sole embellishments are its hints of sparkle, its sexy slashes, its contrast trims, and its flashes of colour. This restraint leaves breathing room for forceful accessories, such as printed leather earrings with coloured crocodile effect and clutches.
Sportmax AW26
Sportmax AW26
Sportmax AW26
With high anticipation, Demna’s Gucci era has finally begun, and the Autumn/ Winter 2026 runway show unveiled a range of offerings that stretch from day-to-night looks, marked by wit and a slightly grotesque undertone that runs through. The house’s new chief creative officer announced his vision for Gucci with an open manifesto on social media, expressing a longing to re-jig the brand’s codes to ensure it becomes more than just clothes, but a real feeling.
“Showcasing the collection in a monumental, almost museum-like space surrounded by marble statues is a gesture that reflects my view of this extraordinary Maison,” noted Demna. “Mirroring this vision is a soundtrack built on the juxtaposition of five distinct genres, curated by loki and recomposed into a single, coherent sound aesthetic.”
Gucci AW26
Gucci AW26
Gucci AW26
Gucci AW26
The show incorporated everything from wear-anywhere essential with Gucci’s known monogram (also used in past collections) to corporate suiting and dark-like shimmers: there was a slow procession of models that inhabited Demna’s characters, chief among them Karlie Kloss, Kate Moss, Amelia Gray, Samuel Watson, Maria Carla Boscono and Noah Brown (the star-studded front row comprised top industry names such as Donatella Versace and Alessandro Michele, among others).
The goal Demna had at hand seemed simple, but it came at a high degree of complexity: elevate and recalibrate the essence of a heritage brand without losing sight of its storied identity.
Gucci AW26
Gucci AW26
Gucci AW26
Gucci AW26
Gucci AW26
Some people hear Gucci and picture something crafty, such as superfine leather goods or accessories. Instead of going the haute route, Demna spun rich textures and daily garb into simple, functional accessories paired with no-brainer elements like roomy trousers and heels. Suiting is a strong category for Demna, but the eveningwear looks so luxurious and so special that his neutral separates run the risk of looking a bit stark in comparison.
For AW26, he ditched some layered and toyed with a sartorial juxtaposition between skin-tight and airy, too. A great pair of white separates had a figure-hugging silhouette; dresses were extra long; and he included plenty of colour-blocking. The collection introduces a new lexicon of silhouettes, textures and materials, expressing the design ethos that lies at the heart of Gucci.
Gucci AW26
Gucci AW26
Gucci AW26
The result is an idea of lightness, naturalness and comfort, with body-conscious shapes, the result of rigorous product development that has made it possible to create seamless garments of the latest generation and volumes cut as close as possible to the figure, a sensitivity.
The soft and fluid tailoring takes shape in ethereal fabrics with a liquid effect, contaminated by a streetwear sensibility through low-cut jackets and trousers with horizontal pockets that spark a concise posture.
Gucci AW26
The designer’s m.o. is unfussy-meets-slick clothes that can fill up your wardrobe, but a little more experimentation would amplify his oeuvre next time. It felt stiff and slightly silly, but chiefly badass. Conclusion: A far cooler option would have been great, but with time, his direction will push into further territories.
Marco Rambaldi AW26
Marco Rambaldi AW26
Marco Rambaldi AW26
Marco Rambaldi’s AW26 outing reflected on the tensions between the sacred and the grotesque, in which the bourgeois uniform became the central point of the lineup, sabotaged through minimal yet radical interventions and volume play. The collection is conceived from the idea of layering, as seen across pairings of jackets and classics that gain a slightly sculptural feel that reveals and conceals flesh.
INSTITUTION latched his Fall 2026 vision to the far territories of the Caucasus, unpacking the story of Borchaly: a historical region in the Caucasus where Galib was born and raised. In 1918, after many years of Persian, Russian, and Ottoman imperial dominance in the Caucasus, the first democratic republics were established, granting women the right to vote and to be elected to public office.
For the first time in history, a Muslim woman was democratically elected to a self-governing body. Peri-Khan Sofieva was from Borchaly, from Galib’s native village of Karajalar. It was a time of women’s emancipation, when strict religious veils were lifted and gradually transformed into traditions rather than obligations. The collection, in turn, tells the story of those women. Headgear slowly fades, dissolves, or fuses into new forms while contemporary ideologies shape these symbols as they move along the runway.
INSTITUTION AW26
INSTITUTION AW26
INSTITUTION AW26
Elsewhere, standouts included the likes of floor-sweeping gowns in felt, each with plunging necklines and possessing a certain seductive power to them. Also of note: intrecciato motifs on coats and modular volumes that empower and restrain the body in equal measure.
Weaving traditions lie at the core of the brand: three special pieces have been hand-knotted by the Azerbaijani weavers of the Borchaly community in Kvemo Kartli, Georgia. The Karachop, Fachralo, and Bordjalou rugs, colored with natural dyes, are hand-knotted on a traditional vertical loom and require between 65,000 and 85,000 knots to complete. Bouclé and felted double-faced wool have been hand-stitched and shaped into sculptural forms. Spread-cut coats and jackets flare from the neckline, unfolding into crafty plaids.
INSTITUTION AW26
INSTITUTION AW26
INSTITUTION AW26
INSTITUTION AW26
With Lineapelle’s support, sheepskin, lambskin and kidassia are shaped to create a bridge between traditionalist dressing and the future. Cotton shoelaces have been woven by hand, tailored, and shaped into architectural silhouettes. Wool, cashmere, and yak yarns sourced by Consinee Group are knitted into capes, overcoats, and pullovers.
by Chidozie Obasi