IT’S A steamy afternoon. We’re parked-up in our specially adapted Great Plains Conservation Land Rover Defender. We have a 360-degree view of a pride of 14 lions, sprawled out to soak up the golden African sun just a few feet away from our vehicle.
Our highly informative guide silently prepares an icy gin and tonic, mindful not to wake the mighty predators. It’s a thrilling experience – our vulnerability is real and a sudden movement from us could startle the lions and end in high drama.
Gingerly, I photograph the scene with the professional Canon camera that I have been provided with. (Images will be downloaded on departure.) As I zoom in at one of the largest females, I observe numerous scars across her torso – evidence that life for these big cats is not always this chilled.
Masai Mara
We’re in the Masai Mara, Kenya, to experience two award-winning Great Plains safari camps. We arrived in our small propeller plane from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport, landing on one of the dusty airstrips serving this vast savannah.
Great Plains Conservation is a pioneering conservation organisation that operates in Africa, primarily focusing on preserving and restoring some of the continent’s most iconic and endangered landscapes and wildlife, founded by Dereck and Beverly Joubert, National Geographic Explorers at Large who are filmmakers, adventurers and philanthropists.
Masai Mara Reserve
Over dinner, we catch up with the charismatic Jouberts. Dereck explains that each of the 14 Great Plains camps are situated in remote unprotected locations in Kenya, Botswana and Zimbabwe, and have been built to ensure minimal impact on the environment and wildlife.
Every structure erected is temporary and can be dismantled without leaving any building footprint. Camps are constructed in such a way that they don’t hinder the free movement of the wildlife, with all private and communal areas built upon elevated platforms, so the animals can seek sanctuary underneath or pass through unhindered.
Beverly informs us how she personally leads the internal design of every camp in order to create an authentic African feel. Scouring each specific region with her keen eye, she has managed to develop a unique atmosphere within every property, with Beverly’s distinctive fine art photography adorning the walls of communal areas at each destination.
Mara Expedition Camp
At Mara Nyika camp, a stratospheric Relais & Chateaux property, there are six uber-spacious canvas-walled suites creating a labyrinth of luxury, with bathrooms comprising an open shower and a copper stand-alone bath with optimal viewing across the plains.
Mara Nyika’s location on the western side of the private 20,000-hectare Naboisho Conservancy ensures thrilling wildlife viewing. During our stay, a leopard gives birth beneath one of the suites. The sighting of a mother departing our camp transporting her cub in her mouth was an exhilarating highlight.
Mara Nyika Camp
Mara Expedition camp, a 45-minute drive away, is rented from and staffed by the local Masai Mara people. During our twice daily safari drives, we’re provided with superb game viewing and an opportunity to learn more about our natural world.
This is the best place to witness the intense action of the Masai Mara ecosystem within the 70,000-acre Mara North Conservancy. At night, we tuck up in our cosy hot water bottle-filled bed, accompanied by the sound of a throaty rumbling of wildlife in the distance.
Mara Expedition Camp
With just five canvas tents accommodating up to ten guests, this intimate camp’s most unique feature is its swimming pool perched high upon a disused army truck (so the local wildlife doesn’t attempt to drink the pool water). It is the perfect spot for far-reaching views across the treetop canopy.
The inclusive gourmet culinary offerings at each of the Great Plains camps have a unique emphasis on healthy vegetarian and vegan options, heavily comprising local and home-produced seasonal produce. Highly skilled chefs offer standout dishes. Menus are concise, with a choice of meat and fish options, with each plate masterfully presented and accompanied by an impressive wine list.
Masai Mara
The most indelible moments of our Great Plains experience are our early morning safari drives before sunrise. We sit awestruck at the scene of the silhouette of the animals starting their day, set against the dramatic crimson glow of the sun rising from the savannah’s horizon – testament to the rich tapestry of the Masai Mara.
by Amanda Bernstein
For more information: greatplainsconservation.com greatplainsfoundation.com