One immediately thinks of formal wear upon hearing Tadashi Shoji’s name. Known for pretty evening looks, the Japanese designer’s autumn collection naturally continues that thread, albeit with an ever-so-slight twist. This season, Shoji’s muse is the sky voyager, who explores uncharted atmospheres high above.
Flight – in the sense of both aviation and winged birds – manifests itself through Shoji’s incorporation of mechanical motifs, zipper trims, and naturally, feathers. The show started with an emphasis on aeronautics and technology, seen through short, black and white cocktail dresses featuring hardware embellishments and gear motifs. Such motifs were small scale and incorporated extremely subtly, only discernible up close.
A series of floor length dresses ensued, consisting of feminine corseted silhouettes billowing out into a tumble of feathers. Silk chiffon was overlaid onto neoprene, creating a subtle contrast that intersected with idea of aircraft mechanics with winged flight. The rest of the collection featured embroidery rich evening gowns in metallic tones of gold, silver and bronze, whose patterns evoke vegetal or floral decoration. However, upon close inspection, they reveal themselves to be highly abstracted renderings of mechanical parts.
Jewel toned tulle and organza gowns embellished with gear and feather motifs closed the show, giving an appearance of weightlessness. With classically feminine silhouettes and materials, Shoji’s collection stays true to what he does best, yet manages to add a slight edge that still stays wholly within his flattering evening aesthetic.
by Louise Lui
Images courtesy of Style.com