YOU KNOW you’ve landed in paradise when your Maldivian water villa includes not one but two outdoor showers – the first for watching the sun rise over the silvery Indian Ocean and the second for spectacular sunset views at the end of another blissful day.
You quickly learn that it is the little things that count at Finolhu Seaside Collection resort, a bijou island in the remote Baa Atoll, just north of the capital, Male and designated the first UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in the Maldivian archipelago.
Finolhu Seaside Collection resort
Milk Lab
Thoughtful touches such as shaded seating on your private front porch, a ceramic water bowl for washing sandy feet, and a personalised butler service make you feel not only welcome but also valued. On a buggy tour of the resort, our butler, Nashwaan, points out the four restaurants, Teen Zone, Art Lab, Fehi Spa, and Milk Lab café, famous for its custard ice cream.
Stepping off the small Trans Maldivian Airways seaplane from Male and easing into Finolhu’s gentle rhythm is effortless. I wander barefoot along sandy paths imprinted with the shadow patterns of overhanging palm leaf fronds. The only traffic you need look out for is fleet-footed waterhens, liable to dart out from the dense undergrowth at any moment. Phones are discouraged, and with so many natural wonders competing for your attention, it proves surprisingly easy to comply.
Lagoon Villa
There are 125 villas, located on the beach, lagoon and on stilts over the water, with more than half boasting their own fresh-water pool. From my sun deck, I can slip directly into the cerulean sea and snorkel to my heart’s content, mesmerised by the tiny electric blue and dusky pink fish flashing past, almost close enough to touch. I give a wide berth, though, to a stingray lurking on the bottom under a blanket of fine sand. Situated in one of the Maldives’ richest marine environments, Finolhu lies close to Hanifaru Bay, one of the largest manta ray feeding canteens in the world. Later, I join a guided sunrise boat trip and snorkel with Hawksbill turtles among the crimson and pink coral reefs.
It is hard to believe that this peaceful, family-oriented haven was once regarded as a party island hotspot, frequented by the likes of Leonardo DiCaprio and Cara Delevingne. Since 2019, when the German-owned Seaside Collection group bought the property, it has undergone an extensive transformation, led by award-winning London-based design studio Muza Lab. The first Maldivian resort to be named a member of Design Hotels, it now channels eco-friendly, design-forward luxury with ‘barefoot chic’ very much the prevailing vibe.
Art Lab
What strikes you is how the resort’s kaleidoscope design concept, characterised by an exuberant blend of colours, patterns and geometry, both complements and enhances the abundant natural beauty. The ultra-modern villas are imbued with an organic calm, featuring clean lines, soft neutral textures and rattan furniture.
The restaurants and public spaces are similarly stylish, filled with bespoke works by artisans from around the world: handmade tiles and handblown glass from Turkey, chandeliers and basket work from South Africa and timber artwork from Java.
Kanusan
As part of its ethos of championing the arts, Finolhu launched ‘A Year in Colour’ at the start of 2026, a year-long celebration of creativity and culture, spearheaded by a rotating roster of internationally acclaimed artists and designers. One such name is British interior and fashion designer Matthew Williamson, who will demonstrate how to paint his signature palm tree motif when he takes up residency in October.
I get the chance to flex my creative muscle at a pottery wheel in the open-air Art Lab that is fast becoming a hub for creative endeavour, hosting exhibitions and sustainability-focused workshops. Classes range from oyster shell painting and fabric dyeing to pottery glazing and traditional Maldivian lacquer making.
Crab Shack
All-night raves may be a thing of the past, but unwinding and having fun is high on the agenda, from dancing to DJ beats at the Beach Club to dining under the stars at the legendary Crab Shack, a short Dhoni ride across the lagoon. This really is the deserted island dream – feasting on delectable soft-shell crab and piri-piri chicken while sipping on chilled rosé.
We enjoy modern Japanese cuisine at award-winning, overwater restaurant Kanusan, devour mezze plates of fish, lamb and roasted vegetables at the beachside Arabian Grill, and find ourselves in buffet heaven at the vibrant Beach Kitchen.
Spa
A highlight is the spa, a collection of cabana-style treatment huts in soothing shades of green tucked deep in the foliage. My Ayurvedic-trained therapist Ashwiny starts with a herbal foot ritual, featuring antioxidant-rich and anti-inflammatory ingredients, that is nothing short of transformative. The Abhyanga massage that follows, using warm herbal oil to help release muscle tension, leaves me with a deep sense of wellbeing.
by Juliet Herd
Rooms at Finolhu’s Lagoon Villa start from £360 per night on a bed & breakfast basis.