EMILIA Wickstead’s SS23 collection is a tribute to the visionary photographer, Lee Miller, and her creative partnership with Man Ray. Miller and Ray’s creative collaborations, including Miller’s pioneering “solarization” photography technique have inspired the collection’s spirit of experimentalism. The campaign, shot by Paul Scala and styled by Kate Phelan, captures the spirit of experimentation, innovation, and contrast that defined their mercurial relationship.
The collection takes inspiration from the 3D effects achieved by Ray and Miller in their photography, marrying flower designs on silk with printed organza overlays. Transparent undergarments are transformed into outerwear, and unconventional necklines drape loosely as if the body itself holds the garment together.
Inspired by Miller’s effortless transitions between disciplines and styles, Wickstead’s designs meld utility with glamour, juxtaposing crisp cotton and denim with sculptural satin. Androgynous pleated trousers and boyish collars are paired with evening skirts, while Mary Jane pumps featuring perspex heels create an illusion of walking on air.Â
The monochromatic palette is enlivened with a kaleidoscope of colours, as models don glossy, highlighted skin and cropped hair reminiscent of Lee Miller. Layered pearl earrings and sporty tote bags in heavy gauze add modern touches to the collection.
The film’s set design evokes a heightened sensory experience, featuring an evocative interplay of light and shadow, emphasising the sensuality of Miller and Ray’s work. By launching the collection with fly-postering across London, the brand highlights its commitment to unconventional beauty, much like its muse, Lee Miller.
by Zlata KryudorÂ