AS I walked past the many bars and restaurants dotted across Fulham high street, I observed small groups of people scattered across tables, keeping within the new coronavirus guidelines.
It was my first time dining out since the pandemic began and I didn’t know what to expect. I approached the doors of L’Artigiano, removed my mask, and braced myself.
L’Artigiano’s interior
I was the first to arrive, so I took some time to admire the decor. Decorative flowers hung from the ceiling, and just next to my head was a full wine rack that I pictured having in my house. Interrupting my daydream, a waiter came over and handed me a glass of cold champagne, served in a 1920s champagne coupe. As I took my first sip, I locked eyes with a couple in the corner who were half way through theirs. “Cheers,” we said with our eyes.
My guest arrived, and we casually clinked glasses as if our 5 month hiatus never happened. L’Artigiano does a good job of keeping the tables apart without the need for garish screens or reminders of the pandemic. A quick pump of hand sanitiser at the door was all we needed, and they took care of the rest.
Having only opened its doors in July, a first timer would never guess that L’Artigiano was so young. There was a distinct air of comfort oozing from the staff, and the menu was so sure of itself. Founder Leandro Longo, (Harrods, La Caricatura, Sadlers) set out to combine contemporary fine dining with a relaxing atmosphere, and he firmly hit the nail on the head.
Dinner begins with a moreish amuse bouche of avocado gazpacho, followed by fresh bread and butter, and then things got really Italian.
From the primi menu, I went for the parmigiana con burrata e polvere di prezzemolo. “Good choice. It’s not what you expect”, said the waiter whilst trailing off. How mysterious.
Half an aubergine arrived on my table, accompanied with a spoon and a red wine pairing chosen by our waiter. All the classic ingredients of a parmigiana had been blitzed into a thick, creamy soup-like blend which was served into the crispy charred skin of the vegetable. Each spoonful of the mixture was familiar and stress-free. Delicate dollops of cream and parmesans crisps gave the dish some extra texture, and the wine was well suited.
For mains, my guest ordered the gnocchi all’amatriciana, and I went for the tagliolini verdi primavera.
Tagliolini verdi primavera
My pasta was bright green in appearance, and came with buttered courgette flowers, broad beans, peas, and sautéed tomatoes. There was something wholesome about the colour, and I put it down to the fact that the peas served a true purpose in the dish.
My guest worked her way through pillowy gnocchi which was dusted in bacon powder and cooked with crispy tropea onions. It came with a 36 month aged parmesan cheese crust, which she picked up and crunched into like a crisp.
Our plates were cleared and I suddenly clocked that the woman I’d previously made eye contact with was a familiar face from a big television show I used to watch. She seemed to be enjoying herself, and so were we.
The deconstructed tiramisu
Sometimes the thought of dessert at a fine dining restaurant can be alarming. Will it arrive in costume? Will it be too complicated? Our tiramisu arrived deconstructed, and our waiter poured the coffee over the isolated chocolate crumble and almond sponge. The dish was accompanied by mascarpone mousse and coffee ice cream, and we spooned a heap of each element together, eager to see if the construction was worth it. It was. So was the second dessert, a no nonsense fudgy chocolate brownie, which proved they could do the best of both worlds.
Despite L’Artigiano sitting right in the centre of London’s richest borough, it shouldn’t be judged by its location. The restaurant offers a fine dining experience that also allows guests to indulge in hearty seasonal Italian cuisine without the frills formalities. It’s the kind of place you’ll know you’ll return to because they’re on the same page and they have a menu for all occasions.
by Katrina Mirpuri
Diners can choose from three menus a set lunch menu; a la carte and an eight-course tasting menu with optional wine pairing.
343 Fulham Road, London, SW10 9TW
For more details, visit their website here