CARVING through the green-blue hues of the Andaman Sea, we cling on tight and bounce in our seats as our boat navigates ripples in the shimmering waters and our guide provides a running commentary to the dazzling cluster of islands that make up the Ao Phang Nga National Park.
Angular limestone cliffs tower above us as we stop to watch monkeys feasting on crabs at the water’s edge and wonder at the gravity-defying trees jutting out from rock formations above.
We’re en route to Khao Phing Kan – better known as “James Bond Island” after its dazzling appearance in 1974’s The Man with the Golden Gun – which lives up to its movie-star billing thanks to a geographically improbable form, nestled among white sands and tropical forest, which has seen it become one of the country’s star attractions in the year since the film’s release.
Fresh from an overnight flight from Europe, it proves a life-affirming excursion that paints a powerful portrait of Thailand’s natural beauty – something that the country’s authorities are increasingly at pains to protect.
The main pool
One Thai enterprise that’s ahead of the curve when it comes to environmental sustainability is the luxurious Banyan Tree Phuket – my five-star destination after arriving back on the mainland.
Set back from the shore of the stunning Bang Tao Bay, this elegant resort – the first from a hotel group that now numbers close to 40 properties worldwide – celebrated its 25th anniversary last year.
Its origin story is remarkable: after buying a plot of land on an abandoned former tin mine, founders Claire Chiang and Ho Kwong Ping had the vision to create a luxury resort, planting thousands of trees, detoxifying the lagoons and bringing life back to a cratered landscape that swiftly became unrecognisable from its former life.
Appetisers at Saffron
A quarter of a century later, these efforts to transform the surrounding area are abundantly clear. Just emerging from the region’s rainy season, the resort is as verdant as it is fragrant; the smell of jasmine accompanies me as I hop on the bicycle outside my room and explore the sprawling grounds, which incorporate a highly regarded golf course, the Sanctuary Spa and – at the heart of the resort – a saltwater lagoon, which I earmark for an early-morning kayak the next day.
As sunset approaches I make the short journey down to the sweeping palm-lined curve of Bang Tao Bay, where, as the waves crash into the white sands, a scattering of influencer photoshoots and well-timed wedding proposals make full use of the stunning backdrop.
Serenity pool villa bedroom
Back at the resort, my villa is generously proportioned with its neutral palette given character with hand-painted murals and locally sourced art and crafts. Across the resort there are nine types of villa available, all nestled around the lagoon, offering seclusion behind stone walls and each coming with a private pool.
Accompanied by achorus of crickets I take a dip before dinner at Thai restaurant Saffron.
One of six on-site eateries that range from high-end Japanese to laidback buffet, it offers a sophisticated interpretation of traditional dishes with beautiful views over the lagoon.
The next morning we witness a rather more rustic approach to local cuisine. It’s feeding time at the Phuket Elephant Sanctuary and the ravenous residents gather around their mahouts, or carers, for a diet of banana, pineapple and watermelon, the latter disappearing whole, accompanied by a satisfied swish of the tail.
Set across 30 acres of lush jungle, this tropical paradise claims to be the first ethical sanctuary in Thailand, offering a new home for rescued elephants who have suffered after working long hours in the logging and tourism industry.
As we wander through forests of bamboo, rubber, mangosteen and jackfruit trees we find the sanctuary’s nine magnificent mammals roaming, bathing and socialising freely, revelling in this welcome new chapter in their lives.
Funded by the cost of entry and far removed from the cruel, stress-inducing practices of elephant riding and bathing seen elsewhere, it’s an impressive model that it’s hoped could become a blueprint elsewhere in the country, successfully proving how tourism can be a force for good within Thailand.
The main pool
It’s a message that the Banyan Tree Phuket takes seriously with its clear focus on sustainability. The resort has invested in a Phuket-wide sea turtle conservation programme since its launch and the team has made great steps in raising awareness of climate change through its community tree-planting events, which aims to plant 2,000 trees per year. In 2018 the resort reduced its plastic footprint by 31 per cent – part of a commitment to eradicating single-use plastics across all of its properties.
On our final evening we gather to celebrate Loy Krathong, Thailand’s annual lantern festival, which sees people up and down the country gathering around rivers, lakes and the sea, lighting paper lanterns, or krathongs, decorated with flowers and incense, to celebrate the goddess of water. Which, given the story behind this pioneering resort’s history and its continued efforts to preserve its marine environment, captures a mood that feels particularly poignant.
Serenity Pool Villas at Banyan Tree Phuket start from £360 per night on a bed and breakfast basis.
by Ben Olsen
For further information, or to book, visit Banyan Tree Phuket Qatar Airways, Skytrax 2019 World’s Best Airline, offers up to 25 flights per week from London to Phuket.
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