IN A QUIET residential pocket in north London resides one of the best gastropubs in the city. The Baring, which opened in Islington exactly a year ago to rapturous praise, really is worth seeking out.
Led by chefs Rob Tecwyn and Jay Styler, who concoct solid, pleasurable dishes such as pork terrine and charred mackerel, alongside roasted lamb rumps and soft choux buns, the cooking here will satisfy every bone in your body.
Now would be a particularly good time to visit as a special “Summer Sundays” menu is currently running (until 27 August), which highlights BBQ flavours and a nice dose of spice. A meze mix consisting of homemade flatbreads and fried artichokes, as well as taramasalata and babaganoush, can be found on the menu, along with inventive offerings such as Shawarma Poussin and Quail shish.
Choose a Cherry tequila sour to wash it all down.
During a recent visit, we started with the silkiest Grelot onion that came dressed with the freshest cheese and the smokiest almonds. It was a truly stunning plate of food.
Next up, in a moment of pure indulgence, was the Grilled Charolais beef rib — the most flavourful and tender meat we’ve tried in a long time — which was served sliced with generous portions of spiced cous cous and radish salad.
The highlight of the “Summer Sundays” menu may just be the Crème caramel, which wobbled pleasingly in a pool of dark golden juice and was accompanied by the richest cherries. The grilled peach surrounded by mounds of meringue and hazelnuts was an equal delight.
The Baring really can do no wrong.
by Derby Jones
The “Summer Sundays” menu at The Baring runs until 27 August.