Glass enjoys the best of Cornish hospitality at Ardor St Ives and Boskerris Hotel

STANDING proudly over the Blue-Flag, white-sand beach at Cornwall’s Carbis Bay, sits the small but perfectly formed Boskerris Hotel. Light and airy interiors prevail; think crisp Mediterranean blues and whites fused with nonchalant New Hampton chic.

Floor-to-ceiling windows, sisal rugs, enormous squidgy sofas and artwork from local Cornish artists create the perfect coastal retreat, while the sun deck serves delicious cocktails and jaw-dropping ocean views in equal measure.

This 15-bedroom, adults only hotel is as welcoming as it is stylish, boasting an excellent restaurant, spa treatments on request and prime position overlooking one of Cornwall’s most breathtaking bays. 

Boskerris Terrace

Boskerris Hotel Interior

We dine at nearby St Ives’ hottest new eatery, Ardor. The casual interior and warm, convivial vibe belies the exacting culinary precision of Chef Patron Dorian Janmaat, who brings Mediterranean flair to the freshest Cornish produce. Here, the ingredients are king – but ex-Le Manoir alumni Janmaat and his team make for the most skilful stewards. 

We start with oysters: 6 plump, pert, salty treasures to set the tone for our seaside weekend. Next up: fried aubergine, honey, olive. An unassuming title for hands down the best aubergine I’ve eaten. Sweet, salty, crisp, umami, with gravity-defying lightness. My monkfish and prawn skewer with mojo rojo sauce is exemplary: robust, meaty morsels, served with the piquant Canarian sauce of hot red peppers, garlic and olive oil, while my dates’ crab and chilli linguine makes for elite comfort food.

Seafood and Cornwall are classic bedfellows, but Janmaat talents extend beyond fish. Carnivores will love Ardor’s iconic dry aged cuts, cooked over charcoal in the traditional Iberian style and served with the freshest salsas, while dishes such as grilled hispi cabbage, and wild mushroom fideuà pasta will delight veggies and ‘flexies’ alike. 

We finish with the ludicrously moreish caramelised apple sticky toffee pudding and – obligatory when in Cornwall – homemade ice cream. This is robust, confident cooking – beautifully executed, using the finest seasonal produce. Local drinks maestro Richard Crossan, of achingly-hip cocktail emporium Palais Provisions, is in charge of cocktails – his Pisco Sours are perfection.

As you’d expect, the wine list is rooted firmly in the Med: featuring predominantly Spanish offerings such as the delightful Monastrell we enjoy, plus a smattering of famed Andalusian sherries.  ‘Ardor’ originates from the Latin word meaning ‘heat’ and ‘passion’ – an accurate metaphor for the warmth, expertise and love, which so clearly underpins this very special restaurant. 

Ardor

Ardor Monkfish and Prawn Skewer

And to do nearby? Stroll the charming labyrinth of St Ives cobbled streets, lined with uber-chic independent stores, bustling cafes, artists residences and picture-perfect fisherman’s cottages. Nearby Porthminster and Porthmeor beaches are famed for their Caribbean-esque sparkling turquoise water – I’m visiting in late September but it could pass for July, both the sea and the sky so gloriously blue.

Barbara Hepworth’s magical home-turned-museum is a must see, as is the renowned Tate St Ives, which boasts a superb restaurant to boot. The surf scene here is legendary, plus endless coastal hikes for outdoorsy types. As my train pulls back into Paddington, Cornwall feels a million miles away – a micro-universe of sunshine, hospitality, creativity and extraordinary natural beauty.

As the Pet Shop boys once wisely said – Go West. 

by Thea Lewis-Yates 

Rooms start at £190 per night at Boskerris Hotel. https://www.boskerris.co.uk/

Ardor St Ives https://www.ardorstives.co.uk/

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