FAMED for their high-quality and fresh ingredients, interesting flavour combinations, and unique and savvy business approach that has seen their flagship restaurant in Denmark expand to a chain of 11 other restaurants in Denmark and eight restaurants in the UK, Sticks‘n’Sushi now maintains a legion of devoted fans seeking the best sushi and yakitori. Founded 25 years ago by three brothers, Jens and Kim Rahbek and Thor Andersen, inspiration was taken from their half Japanese half Danish background to build a unique cuisine that combined the two culinary traditions. Ahead of the opening of their brand-new Soho restaurant, I took a visit to the Covent Garden restaurant to try the restaurant for myself.
Already a dynamic and innovative force in the dining scene, I had been told by friends of dreamy Sticks‘n’Sushi meals where platters of sushi and tempura assortments were served alongside sweet sake and delicate fruity cocktails. Other friends had spoken of the incredible interior design, referencing the Copenhagen-based firm Norm Architects.
And one friend had even told me of her experience in the private dining section where sushi rolls were in abundance, grilled delicacies glistened under the warm lighting and colourful salads completely reimagined what a salad could achieve. This option of private dining, with your own kitchen and 100 per cent privacy, in a London restaurant is rare. But this is exactly the approach Sticks‘n’Sushi prides themselves in. A service that makes you feel like royalty, that opens your eyes to a new way of dining and that ensures you return again and again.
Sticks‘n’Sushi catering staff
Sticks‘n’Sushi Nigiri
Visiting the Covent Garden branch, all of my friend’s recommendations came alive before me. The façade is black, the walls stoney and rustic, and the windows on either side of the room, as well as above, allow grey light to dance across the tables, warmed gently by the interior lighting fixtures that come in modern industrial style. Taking our seats, we were guided through the specials menu and the cocktails list and along the way we were introduced to the restaurant concept with suggestions of what to order based on their signature dishes. Sipping on the Hotaru cocktail, consisting of Bacardi Carta Oro rum shaken with Fuji apple sake, passion fruit, orgeat & lemon, we then browsed through the menu, which offered an impressive 133 pictures for guidance.
It was difficult determining what to order due to the overwhelming amount of tempting choices. Ranging from Suzuki Kataifi to Crab Croquettes to Beef Tataki simply on the first page, it was abundantly clear that Sticks‘n’Sushi was a restaurant for everyone, even for those who don’t like fish. We opted for Hotate Kataifi, a combination of Scallops, Miso Aioli trout roe and cress, the Ebi Bites, shrimp with a unique tempura coating that resembled bubbles – still baffled at how this worked, the aubergine special and the grilled broccoli as our first dishes. Each ever so moreish, each crunchy yet salty and soft at the centre and each left you claiming, “No, actually that one’s my favourite.”
Sticks‘n’Sushi platters
Sticks‘n’Sushi dishes of maki rolls, salad and Eringi sticks
For the second round of dishes, we selected our maki rolls. We opted for spicy tuna rolls made with tuna, cucumber, chili, miso aïoli, masago, kataifi & herbs, the New York subway rolls – I am still dreaming of these – made up of prawn, salmon and spicy garlic, and the soft shell crab special. We also chose two Eringi sticks, grilled king oyster mushrooms with miso herb butter, for good measure. Each dish was moderate in size but mighty in flavour. And despite the delicacy of ingredients and construction, the structure remained sturdy and easy to eat in one mouthful, enough to make Sticks‘n’Sushi also offer a takeaway and delivery service.
Sticks‘n’Sushi dishes captured at the King’s Road branch
Sticks‘n’Sushi Engiri stick and broccoli dishes
Today, Sticks‘n’Sushi opens at 40 Beak Street, Soho, London – the group’s seventh restaurant in central London. Located within the bustling streets of central London, the new restaurant offers a warm and welcoming atmosphere to escape the business outside. Softly hanging partitions inspired by Japanese Noren curtains, combined with Danish Hygge, provide a distinct feeling of cosiness that permeates every square foot of the two-storey restaurant. Andreas Karlsson, Group CEO admits that “finding the ideal locations for Sticks‘n’Sushi can take us some considerable time. We devote a great deal of energy to looking for the perfect sites, and we’ve now found the right spot in Soho.”
To celebrate the opening of the restaurant, Sticks‘n’Sushi will release a sustainable and British-brewed sake, called Rice Revived, made from surplus rice by Kanpai, a micro sake brewery based in London run by Lucy and Tom Wilson. Taking a traditional Japanese delicacy and reinventing it with a modern purpose couldn’t reflect the ethos of Sticks‘n’Sushi more. Now positioned in every corner of London’s leading dining locations, Sticks‘n’Sushi have proven their masterful ability to entice customers with a formula of sharable dishes packed full of flavour, incredible interior design and a unique culinary combination of Dutch and Japanese heritage.
Andreas Karlsson, Group CEO
by Lily Rimmer
Sticks‘n’Sushi Soho, 40 Beak Street, Soho, London W1F 9RQ
Open from October 9, Monday – Saturday midday until 11 pm and Sunday 12 noon until 10 pm
For bookings, visit here