JONATHAN Anderson is seldom subtle when it comes to his collections, especially those for his eponymous label. Shown amongst a backdrop of comically large phallices, Anderson debuted his latest collection in partnership with Scottish dancer and choreographer, Michael Clark, a collection with a perfect marriage of fluidity and structure, character and colour.
As a gay designer himself, Anderson is usually one to inject a well needed dosage of queer-history into his designs. From Tom of Finland collaborations to BDSM accents, an amplification of gay sexuality can normally be expected.
Thus, his collaboration with Clark may not be so much as a surprise, but certainly a welcomed addition to the roster.
A protégée of the Royal Ballet School recognised for his marriage of dance and queer nightlife, Clark has had a career as fascinating and extensive as any could hope for. From starting his own dance school, to collaborating with modern greats such as Leigh Bowery, Sarah Lucas and Charles Atlas, its not difficult to assume why Anderson has been coveting a partnership.
Though there are some dancerly elements to a selection of garments, the collaboration seems to focus more on Clark as a person, with memorabilia, imagery and his own name plastering a series of pieces.
A focal element of the collection is Anderson’s use of structured garments, with angular collars and peplums, enlarged circular necklines and winged tops, contrasting the more drapey silhouettes made in silk. Clothing is accented with an assembly of familiar accessories, including new iterations of the bumper bag and oversized totes, though the stars of the show are surely the court shoes with gold “J” heel.
The collection overall is cohesive and wearable, and serves as a loving homage from Anderson to someone we are lead to presume has idolised for quite some time.
by Ben Sanderson