UNVEILING his autumn-winter 2024 collection during London Fashion Week, Saul Nash presented one of the most energetic shows of the calendar.
Tapping into the rituals and routines of London’s garage clubs, the seasonal offering – titled Dress Codes – plays upon the strict “no hoods/no hats/no trainers” rule adopted by many venues.
Accompanied by a custom-mixed soundtrack by CKTRL, with Envy on the Mic, the New Gen designer paid homage to the impact of the garage scene on his upbringing. Featuring the rack Double-up by RJ East – Saul’s older brother – Nash reminisces on his first garage night, having been accompanied by his sibling.
“Growing up, I witnessed the garage scene through the eyes of my older brother, who was an MC. It set the blueprint for how I see clothing today. The question was, how do you take sportswear and dress it up to get in? That was the starting point for this collection,” explains Nash.
Presenting versatile, adaptable pieces, the clothing is intended to get you in the club but also to wear out on the street for casual everyday wear. For example, a black padded Primaloft jacket – adorned with Nash’s signature movement lines – features a hood which can also be folded down into a collar. Perfect for anyone trying to cheat a dress code.
Meanwhile, structural shapes and met with soft, relaxed forms to accentuate the interplay between casual and formalwear. Knit jackets have been crafted from Merino and regenerated viscose to increase movement and fluidity.
However, the subversion of classical silhouettes does not stop there. Recycled nylon zip-ups are strap-cut, with a piece running over the shoulder. The back raglan offers wearability. Yet the front provides formality.
The designer also decided to collaborate with Smiley for the latest ensemble. Created by Franklin Loufrani in 1971, the bold yellow smiling face has become an iconic image over the past five decades. The circle of the smile embellishes zip-up shell jackets and padded wool collarless shirts with a baseball cut.
Similarly, the designer also collaborated with ARCS to create his first array of bags. Exhibiting a mesh crossbody bag alongside holster bags, the accessory line adds further flair and intrigue to the collection.
Finally, Saul partnered with Sebago for the latest shoes. The result is a series of shoes blurring the lines between sporty and smart. Sebago’s Classic Dan loafers have been reinterpreted with a contrasting Vibram sole to provide a futuristic, avant-garde aesthetic.
Filling the runway with dance, upbeat music and sporty design, Nash’s AW24 presentation was not one to miss.
by Sophie Richardson
The Saul Nash x Sebago shoes will be available to purchase from saulnash.co.uk and sebago.co.uk from June 2024 with prices ranging from £260 to £295.