AS IS the same with every art form, fashion is not just expression, but escapism too – and in the ethereal and otherworldly sanctuary of Susan Fang‘s autumn-winter 2024 show, this was never more true.
Where some choose gothic, autumnal looks, and others opt for bold blacks of defiance, Fang’s social commentary is one of endless positivity – and bubbles. Her latest collection, Air Home, gifts the world with joyful, tranquil, aqua-inspired looks, each garment a testament to the Chinese designer’s innovative craftsmanship.
Familiar Fang techniques of the “air-flower” and “air-smocking” were joined by the new “air-whirl”, a method where three-colour gradient organza ribbons encircled each other to resemble a coral sea.
The label’s signature sugary palette is reimagined by the influence of marine life, with misty blues and pale pinks meeting shades of lemon yellow, lilacs, and the occasional deep green and black.
The iconic clover jacquard was incorporated into the knitwear, marking each whimsy, gradient-coloured knit piece identifiable to those who may not be immediately aware of Susan Fang’s work – if such people still exist.
Motifs of stars and clover hearts are recontextualised to mimic ocean waves, and yarn stitched on shawls symbolised seahorse scales, evidencing each layer of the imaginative and thoughtful craftsmanship true to Susan Fang.
Connecting to more than just a natural world, the line came together to build an image of fairy-like visions, particularly emphasised by two shawls in pastel and candy pinks, voluminous to resemble cloud-like wings.
Down shawls were playful in their laser-cut, thin organza pleats, and the silhouette of the skirts were embellished with a clover composed of four hearts and a central diamond surrounded by hearts, beautifully illustrating Fang’s desire for love and luck to all.
Collaborating with Nike, models walked the venue in reinterpreted versions of the footwear brand’s iconic shoes, including Vomero 5, V2K, P-6000, and Air Max Scorpion FK.
The designer’s skilful 3D drawing technique elevated the trainers with black and white floral patterns, speaking to Fang’s desire to entangle our everyday dress with the natural and fantasy world.
An exciting Victoria’s Secret x Susan Fang collection also debuted, showcasing intimates, sleepwear, and outerwear intended to create a dreamy, harmonious relationship with one’s inner self.
Powder blues and delicate whites match Fang’s feminine aesthetic, and classic Victoria’s Secret bralettes, underwear, and camisole sleep dresses were reinvented with Fang’s iconic bubble bead strand and sweet embroidery of hearts and butterflies.
Despite only debuting in 2017, Susan Fang has become a global name, recognisable for her dreamy visions of confectionary colour schemes, spiritual femininity, and contemporary craftsmanship. Her autumn-winter 2024 adds yet another strong layer to the brand’s place in the fashion industry.
by Madeleine Ringer