FOR SUSAN Fang‘s SS23, titled “Air • Light”, we were invited to experience the presentation in a truly unique venue, a century-old swimming pool at the Active Marshall Street Leisure Centre. Decorated with floating “Peace bubbles” printed with abstract marble-like patterns drawn by the designer’s mother, they resembled the prints of the collection and withhold good wishes in accordance with the concept of set designers Tang Huilan and Feng Rui Hua.
The showcase explores the notion of “The variable of peace and love” retrieved from the designer’s personal poems. “The joy of the world is unknown to the heavens: after a while, the greed for joy will turn darkness into light”, reads one of them.
For this season, Fang brings back her beloved traditional techniques while also introducing some fresh implementations, such as weaving that presents the notion of unravelling the dreamy nature of the garments.
Taking a look at the open work fabric made from vine-like threads weaved together one by one, they are ripped by external forces to create a pulling effect on the body, while voluminous beads and beautiful bubbles connect them together, highlighting the “struggles and tears” faced in a world full of hardship.
Sequences of pleats on the dresses bring dynamism and movement to her creations, while multi-layered prints adorned with voluminous “Air-Flowers” create a three-dimensional illusion. As the show notes explain, the sheer essence of the: “Air-Flowers and Air-Print together create a spring scene for this collection”.
The footwear brought with it an announcement of the designer’s exciting collaboration with Crocs. Fang reworked the classic pair of hole shoes, adding a touch of glossy lightness and leaving no doubt that Crocs fandom will approve of this new addition.
by Zlata Kriukova