LFW SS24: Chopova Lowena

CHOPOVA LOWENA’s latest collection, titled Girl’s Tear, Girls Tear, portrays the tumultuous journey from girlhood to adulthood. Adopting the name Girl’s Tear from the Bulgarian word for lily of the valley, Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena were inspired by Helston’s Flora Day festival.

Held annually on the 8th of May, the festival is a celebration depicting a Medieval tale of a continuous conflict between angels and devils, peace and war, sea and shore and other traditional figures found within various forms of folk-lore.

The title of the collection comments on the disruptive nature and chaos of girlhood – a time of experimentation, teenage angst and refinement.

With the show taking place at West London’s renowned BAYSIXTY6 skate park, the setting satirically alludes to the trope of falling for a skater boy and nostalgic memories of young love. Models stormed through the skatepark to a soundtrack of early emo, screamo classics – Break Stuff by Limp Bizkit, Bodies by Drowning Pool and more.

Embroidered white dresses embellished with hundreds of bows and lace detailing demonstrate the references to childhood and youthfulness throughout the collection, Meanwhile, boned bustiers, corsets and leather detailing emphasise the struggles of progressing from girlhood to adulthood.

Juxtaposing bold reds with soft blues, whites and greens, the latest offering epitomises the idea of adolescent rebellion. Dressed for battle, the models walked with a warrior-like composition – metaphorically ready to take on the trials and tribulations girls may face in the wake of adulthood.

Graphic tees are styled with oversized board shorts or plaid pyjama pants to further accentuate the coming-of-age aesthetic adopted by the designers. Images of dragons, demons and angels appear on tees and knitwear pieces to remind us of the folkloric narrative behind the designs.

Additionally, this collection debuts the brand’s interest in handbags and footwear. Collaborating with the Southern California-based footwear brand UGG, bespoke footwear styles were crafted and embellished with jewels, bows and other accessories to render the shoes more personal and add a subversive flair.

The Classic Mini II Boot, Classic Short II Boot, Disquette and Classic II Slipper all appear in their newly imagined, fierce Chopova versions. Italian-crafted handbags were casually slung around models’ shoulders with subtle hardware detailing showcasing custom notebooks, pens and combs – an ode to the endless sum of items found within a woman’s bag.

Epitomising adolescent turmoil and rebirth, Girl’s Tear, Girls Tear reiterates the design duo’s daring, fun and provocative approach to design.

by Sophie Richardson

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