FROM THE depths of the darkness a mirage emerged – Peter Pilotto’s SS20 collection for MFW, tantalising and teeming with colour. A kaleidoscope of patterns shifted into focus, sweeping the audience into the seventies.
Floral silk suits were followed by finely crocheted tops and dresses in what were very loud but very desirable new wardrobe additions. Wavy vertical stripes rippled from head to toe, elongating models.
Vibrant colour combinations of purple and blue, blue and yellow, orange and lime green, made it seem as if you were stepping inside an aviary of tropical birds, with each movement a flap of feathered wings. The show also showcased Pilotto’s first menswear collection, which shared the lively energy and colours of the womenswear.
Bucket hats and bum bags added a festival feel to the collection, though their satin material gave them a luxurious upgrade. Pairs of bags were a consistent element of the show – one male model had a semi-circle and rectangle bag draped around his neck. Hair was waved, contributing to the show’s carefree spirit. Coloured eyeliner in pink or blue traced the eyebrow arch, defining the eyes and making a vivid statement all at once.
Peter Pilotto’s SS20 show reinforced his title as king of colour and introduced exciting new possibilities with his pursuit of menswear.
by Alicia Pountney