MFWM AW23: Jordanluca

CONFRONTING dystopian realities head on, the latest Jordanluca collection – which marks sportswear brand Lonsdale’s first collaboration with a high-end luxury design house – blitzes together corrupt political agendas, a deteriorating climate and effervescent anxiety by creating a wardrobe which anticipates armageddon. 

Riding on a motif of uncertainty, the Jordanluca collection exists as a metaphor for the cyclical reality of the everyday. It is a dire presentation in terms of references, however it doesn’t stop at simply being a dire presentation, but brings elements of hope though various patterns and intoxicating colours.

Designers Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto acknowledge the unreliable times in which we are living, and aim to present two routes in which we may travel down: one, deeper into further uncertainty, or two, to revert back on ourselves and fix humanities mistakes. Easier said than done, but a well needed injection of optimism nonetheless. 

Jordanluca AW23

Jordanluca AW23

Jordanluca AW23

Jordanluca AW23

Jordanluca AW23

Jordanluca AW23

This feeling of overbearing fear and anxiety contrasted by hopefulness is generated through the clothing design, and the introduction of the “bulldog shoulder.” Transforming the wearers posture, the bulked out shoulder gives the impression of a slight hunch, representative of the effects of a lifetime of misdirection, but not severe enough to acknowledge a defeat. The design technique further translates the tenacity of the human spirit, and exemplifies Marchetto and Bowen’s overarching message of the collection, the idea of pushing through looming disaster instead of clinging to denial and acceptance for the worse. 

The notion of pushing forward is a recurring idea present throughout the show, and a key reason for the brand’s collaboration with urban sportswear brand Lonsdale. The tagline of “Harder Faster” is a perfect summary of what the collection in itself encapsulates, and the contrast between elements of tailoring with the accents of Lonsdale sportswear not only signifies the jumbled up reality of the show, but almost acts as a token of motivation. 

Similar motifs and colours further this narrative, with highlighter pinks and scattered fairies reject the gloomy darkness of oversized suiting or jeans which look as if they have been soiled from fear. Through both their playful and pessimistic vision, the design duo have created a physical manifestation of the red and blue pill allegory, leaving us with the choice of which reality we would prefer. 

by Ben Sanderson

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