NYFW AW15: Thakoon

Taking an unexpected left turn, Thakoon Panichgul bypassed the prevalent 1970s vibe, opting instead for an art-like collage influenced by the early 1990s. With a fearless approach to colour, texture and silhouette, he produced a richly layered collection that packed a serious sartorial punch, further enhanced by the gleaming petroleum set design. Graphic raspberry red embroidery adorned sheer black chiffon dresses and long-sleeved shifts, while a softer, more organic embellishment, multi-coloured tinsel and red and navy silk polka dots provided an intentional clashing contrast.

Muddy oranges and browns added a warm earthiness to the palette as boxy shearling shapes draped across the body and patchwork mohair formed A-line, knee-length coats. A striped copper and sky-blue wool provided a necessary palate cleanser along with the white oversized shirting, the latter layered with cold pink floral velvet in the shape of structured crop tops and paired with grey mannish trousers. However, the more paired-back looks remained our favourites this season, in particular the soft layering of a navy jumper and gently pleated and printed sweeping skirt.

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by Elisabeth Krohn

Images courtesy of Style.com