PFW AW14: Akris

A master of the technical treatment, Albert Kriemler, delivered a studious, succinct collection that will certainly entice the cognoscenti, delivered with a spotless eloquence for the Swiss label, who, following last night, can celebrate their 10th year on the Parisian catwalk.  Bespectacled models strolled quizzically down the catwalk, parading sophisticated, intelligent layering and deadly chic monochromatic combinations, intruded only by a pop of red, with fuzzy, hide-like sheared fur dresses, making for an alarming colour palette.

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Next to the discernable, stylishly adroit dresses, masculine tailoring brought on a crisp pragmatic sensuality, thoroughly aligned to the Akris pedigree. It took full advantage of double-faced wool and alpaca coats and classic, tweedy, grey flannel, with swank checked coats employing the oversized lapels that we seem to be seeing almost everywhere, and almost completely obscuring the ravishing sheer blouses undisclosed underneath.

Moving on from earlier entries, Kriemler embarked on a propitious collaboration with German photographer, Thomas Ruff, in order to mark Akris’ milestone presentation with a characteristic nifty quality. Along with Ruff, whose conceptual serial photography and intriguing methods of manipulating his images garners broad acclaim, Kriemler conceived embroidered motifs based on Ruff’s stupefying cosmic studies, Stars, Night and m.a.r.s. Within an instance crimson silk georgette became emblazoned with blotchy abstracted photogram prints, whilst suited ensembles were marked with gravely planetary prints of the red planet, featuring seething, almost three dimensionally embossed, crater details entirely intact.

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As technical as they are, they then become juxtaposed with cold, neo-modernist eveningwear gowns, sprinkled with miniscule LED lights, quite intentionally resembling a stark star-scattered night; even more patent black chiffon gowns feature meshy organza cascading around the body instead. Classic forms of minimal mink and shaggy garnishes pervaded throughout, interpreted with an appealing modernity nonetheless, an unflustered modernity at ease, which will surely spell out another thriving 10 years.

by Liam Feltham

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