Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren’s grey matter was positively stirring today in Paris, with an ode to their infatuation for the slate v-neck, and don’t think for a second that this would make way for a dull collection, after all, this is Viktor & Rolf. The tributaries sent models down a hypnagogic, eerily unreal, simulation of a two-lane tarmac street, complete with streetlamps, guiding their dedication to dusty charcoal shades.
The various knotted prints and textures that stemmed from the colour palette, naturally, austere, yet knowingly urbane, sweater-dresses were the first order of the day, seconded by some blanket-like smocks and tank dresses with a whispy cool. Effectively gaudy bedazzled prints, with a chintzy quirk, worked on cementing the rather lacklustre allure of stark greys, and striking a capricious idiosyncratic angle, the designers, did decide to inject a blotch of colour after all, with salmon corals and a streak of icy blues traversing the roadways.
Engorging silhouettes was another custom that the duo could narrowly avoid, beginning with linear cable stitched knits administered to mesh, shaggy froths of knotted wool on coats, and lengthy, asymmetrical peplum gestures. Rounding off the collection, tailored velveteen jackets, organza panelled shirt, possessing a clean, calculated transparency, motioned V&R’s time-honoured attributes, the masters were at work today, and decidedly it doesn’t take much for them to present the world with a compelling collection.
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy of Style.com