IT CAN be hard to recapture a moment. Especially the timeless, widely adored era of the nineties at Chanel when supermodels strutted freely down the raised runway and photographers swarmed around its corners in hope of getting the perfect shot.
These high voltage shows put the French fashion brand back on the map as Karl Lagerfeld made Chanel sexy and playful. It is this exact combination that creative director Virginie Viard wanted to rediscover again; “fashion is about clothes, models and photographers”.
So, just like that the designer decided to give us a glimpse of what we missed all those years ago. In the Grand Palais Éphémère, the audience was packed tightly together, the runway was lifted and the photographers were spilling onto the runway – it was how fashion should be presented.
It was intimate. It was fun. And, it was oh so chic!
The collection began with an instant hit: the return of the Chanel bikini. Whether an industry insider, customer or just admirer, I am undoubtedly sure that this swimwear will be on the very top of your shopping agenda next year.
Black bikinis with white piping and a subtle CC were contrasted by sportier one-pieces while a halter-neck gold chain swimsuit is the perfect addition to your summer wardrobe if you are looking for something more smart.
Sheer skirts, low-waisted chains hanging around the midriff and slouchy large shoulder bags accompanied the swim attire showing us less is definitely not more.
Big smiles, hair flicks and bouncy walks from the models created an infectious atmosphere of positivity, it gave those attending the perfect goodbye to the fashion week month and a reminder that within this chaos fashion is a tool to be shared and celebrated.
Fishnet skirts, crochet suits, lots of chiffon and of course, tweed, the SS22 collection was not over-the-top, the silhouettes were simple and timeless while each piece were wearable while remaining elegant.
It was Chanel at its very core. Drenched in femininity, the colour palette evolved from monochrome to inserts of hues of glittery gold and blue then into pastels, finishing in butterfly print.
A tactile transition that played on all our heart strings as clear links were made to some of the brand’s most loved looks from the past, unattainable until now.
Maybe this change into a more light-hearted direction is due to the brands appeal to the younger generation. Generation Z are fanatics of ‘90s Chanel, referencing and posting images of the old shows while spending their free time keen to discover vintage pieces.
Either way, it was a breath of fresh air. It felt like Viard had relaxed a bit with this collection allowing herself to play with the archives and bring back some of the magic that was missing.
Yes it can be hard to recapture a moment. Did Virginie Viard manage to do it? Absolutely.
by Imogen Clark