WHEN YVES Saint Laurent designed the first tuxedo for women in 1966, the fashion landscape shifted. It was seismic. A woman was wearing a man’s uniform. Fast forward 58 years, and the brand’s now-creative director Anthony Vaccarello dedicated the spring-summer 2025 collection to the man who created this now quintessential female archetype.
Relishing in the unique space that Saint Laurent holds, one that is defined by deep-rooted independence and one entirely reflected in the founder, who once proudly stated that “I am the Saint Laurent woman”.
Describing her as someone who “loves to indulge in darker penchants, an attraction to danger and pleasure she proudly owns in her modern agency”, SS25 fell into two halves. The first, a pure reflection of Yves within women. The second, an embodiment of her now.
Returning to the show space he showed his debut collection, the brand’s headquarters on the Left Bank at Rue de Bellechasse, an array of slouchy, shoulder-padded and yet precisely cut double-breasted suits walked down the runway. Ties, thick-rimmed glasses and slicked back hair included, it was a modern rendition of Yves’ style.
As the collection unravelled, so did hints of the modern woman. First came, chunky gold jewellery poking out from the overcoats. Then came floor-length chiffon skirts and dresses that were paired with leather jackets and ropes of beaded necklaces; hints of breasts started poking out; and then a mirage of looks that paid tribute to Loulou de la Falaise.
The aforementioned traits of indulging in the night were personified. A nod to the Opium era at Saint Laurent. High-neck, sleeveless lace blouses were paired with shiny floral jackets and worn with skirts that were layered – everything contrasted, nothing matched and it somehow all worked. Deep greens, purples, yellows, browns and oranges bounced around.
At a time in fashion when you have to question more times than not what brand something is from, you simply cannot mistake Vacarello’s Saint Laurent. It’s unquestionably his. But what’s most charming about his Saint Laurent is that Yves has never been lost nor misinterpreted – and SS25 was a beautiful reminder of how the past can dictate the future.
by Imogen Clark