RETURNING to the fashion scene after a three-month sabbatical, creative director Virgil Abloh aroused excitement and passion at the showcasing of Off-White’s AW20 collection in Paris. A heavy emphasis on knitwear establishes the key foundations of the collection, displayed in the forms of sweatshirts, turtlenecks and hoodies, while boxy blazers and coats were also present in differing variations, with some cinched at the waist and others fastened for a more robust look.
Primary components of the collection include an array of ponchos in grey hues, wide-leg trousers, and slouchy suits garnished with large holes, perhaps Off-Whites most significant emblem since the quotation marks, and now a recurring element having previously featured in the women’s SS20 collection.
Muted blues, blacks and browns make up the base of the collection’s colour palette, with brighter primary colours emerging slowly but surely from the concluding ensembles to provide a touch of vibrancy.
Adhering to Off-White’s recent collaboration with Nike, many of the models were attired in Air Force Jordan 5 sneakers, serving as the perfect complements to an assortment of outfits.
Pieces were enhanced with a variation of bold graphic prints, featuring considerably frivolous items such as lemons, wine bottles and wet floor signs, providing an obscure yet modern and somewhat conventional edge. A softly focused image of Mona Lisa on a darkly coloured tie references Virgil’s recent capsule collection in collaboration with the Louvre, which pays homage to the 500th anniversary of Leonardo de Vinci’s death.
Indisputably an earnest beginning to this season’s Paris Fashion Week, Virgil did not disappoint, but rather yielded a breath of fresh air over Off-White, opting to deviate from its classic streetwear aesthetic that has so far been the defining heart of the brand, in favour of a more polished and tailored approach for AW20.
by Cara Jenkins