By all accounts, it’s not entirely amiss to assert that the Lang aesthetic is truly in its element in the A/W 2014 stratosphere, so here and now, heed these words by the iconic designer, confessing that his clothing has always signalled “the sort of anonymous status that the truly knowing admire”.
Nicole and Michael Colovos paid decidedly close attention to this cryptic mantra, and if texture is the language of the season Helmut Lang holds the candle with a NYFW presentation spotlighting the kind of fuzzy fabrications that make a subtle, knowing, almost self-referential statement. Lang despondence on cue, intense layering, most apparent in laser-cut fur jumpers, burgeoning, multi-layered and positively frothing, as well as oversized angora cascades, becomes salvaged by chic coalescing minimal pieces, militant jackets, with acute edges and wink-and-you’ll miss it collars.
This says it all, subtly, without shouting it, alongside nippy slices of sticky slick lipstick red leather, as complimentary hues, paired solidly, emerge as another theme, and a bold move for Lang at that, as minimalist styling eventually becomes rounded off superbly by enveloping funnel necks.
Overall, AW14 at Lang gifted a real delight upon the consumers fond of Lang’s inherent minimalism that continues to stand the test of time, and with characteristic cocoon shapes and experiments with street-talking prints continuing to make the rounds, expect more this season, as well as the creeping omnipresence of lofty layering.
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy of Style.com