NYFW AW2014: Helmut Lang

By all accounts, it’s not entirely amiss to assert that the Lang aesthetic is truly in its element in the A/W 2014 stratosphere, so here and now, heed these words by the iconic designer, confessing that his clothing has always signalled “the sort of anonymous status that the truly knowing admire”.

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Nicole and Michael Colovos paid decidedly close attention to this cryptic mantra, and if texture is the language of the season Helmut Lang holds the candle with a NYFW presentation spotlighting the kind of fuzzy fabrications that make a subtle, knowing, almost self-referential statement. Lang despondence on cue, intense layering, most apparent in laser-cut fur jumpers, burgeoning, multi-layered and positively frothing, as well as oversized angora cascades, becomes salvaged by chic coalescing minimal pieces, militant jackets, with acute edges and wink-and-you’ll miss it collars.


This says it all, subtly, without shouting it, alongside nippy slices of sticky slick lipstick red leather, as complimentary hues, paired solidly, emerge as another theme, and a bold move for Lang at that, as minimalist styling eventually becomes rounded off superbly by enveloping funnel necks.

Overall, AW14 at Lang gifted a real delight upon the consumers fond of Lang’s inherent minimalism that continues to stand the test of time, and with characteristic cocoon shapes and experiments with street-talking prints continuing to make the rounds, expect more this season, as well as the creeping omnipresence of lofty layering.

by Liam Feltham

Images courtesy of Style.com

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