“THIS is the world’s greatest testament of love,” exclaims Ravi, “It was built by a mighty ruler grief-stricken over the death of his wife.” I get goosebumps as we gaze at the dazzling-white marble mausoleum, with its gigantic turban-shaped dome set against the cloudless sky in 40-degree sunshine. Ravi, our guide from Cox & Kings, explains that the Taj Mahal was erected by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died while giving birth to her fourteenth child.
The compound was commissioned in 1632, taking 20,000 craftsmen aided by 1,000 elephants ten years to build. Previously the capital of the great Mughal Empire, Agra now hosts seven million visitors annually.
The Taj Mahal, Agra
Delhi
We arrived into the dusty heat of Delhi the previous morning, feeling refreshed from a direct flight from London. We took the historic route on roads throbbing with traffic through the walled city of Old Delhi, where the Mongol, Turkish, Persian, Afghan and Mughal architectures all contributed to the illustrious history of the Indian capital. In contrast, New Dehli, planned by Sir Edwin Lutyens, is built in a colonial style with avenues leading onto Parliament House, the War Memorial Arch and the Viceregal Palace, residence of the President of India.
We’re staying at the Taj Palace Diplomatic Enclave hotel in the heart of New Delhi. Its huge marble entrance leads through to the afternoon tearoom with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking two and a half hectares of manicured gardens. Our first dinner at the hotel’s Indian restaurant, Masala Art, would turn out to be the favourite meal of our entire trip. While watching the chefs at work in the show kitchen, we dip our fluffy pieces of tender naan bread into dishes of spicy tikka masala, piquant vegetable curries with spicy sauce, and melt-in-the-mouth palak paneer.
Jaipur
Rajasthan is an India’s largest state with a population of 70 million. We head to its capital city, Jaipur, known as the ‘Pink City’ ever since its buildings were painted a pink hue for Prince Albert’s visit in 1853.
Charmed by a snake in Jaipur
After a four-hour drive from Agra, we enter the spectacular grounds of the Taj Rambagh Palace, previously the residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur. It has retained its royal heritage with staff attired in uniforms from a bygone era, evoking a sense of hospitality that use to be afforded to Indian royalty.
This elegant property is built around picturesque gardens with an indoor and outdoor pool, where the Maharaja took his daily swim. Every corner of the palace is ordained with richly coloured and textured furnishings. Ornately carved pillars and intricate lattice carvings decorate each passageway, which are lined with historic images of the past.
Taj Rambagh Palace Outdoor Pool
En route to Amber Fort, a Rajput architectural masterpiece, we encounter a snake charmer enticing his fangless cobra from its basket, and we pass a teenage goat herder with all his bleating animals in tow. Amber Fort was built in 1600 and has been expanded over the years by its various rulers to include a labyrinth of courtyards and passages. Our humorous guide, Raj Singh Siras, narrates fascinating stories about the private lives of the king and his numerous queens and concubines, while guiding us through each room, many of which are illustrated by colourful frescoes and mirrored mosaics.
Taj Rambagh Palace
Udaipur
Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur
An hour’s flight from Jaipur takes us to Udaipur, known as the Venice of the East, famed for the intricate lakes and ancient buildings lining its shores. We’re ferried by speedboat across Lake Pichola to the seemingly floating residence of the Taj Lake Palace hotel, which was originally the summer residence of Maharana Jagat Singh and his family.
As we step into the palace, we’re mesmerised by the intricate carvings in the marbled entrance and the decorated columns lining every corridor leading to the courtyard garden (as featured in the James Bond movie Octopussy). Our royal suite’s carved window frames reveal expansive views over the lake, and from the panoramic windows in our glass-walled jacuzzi, I watch the orange sunset below the water in the horizon. That night we climb the narrow staircase following a petal and tea-light trail to the palace’s rooftop, where our banquet is served against the backdrop of the night with a twinkling shoreline and the Aravalli Hills in the distance.
Pool area at Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur
In the morning, our guide and driver are waiting on the jetty to take us on a tour of Udaipur. At the Jagdish Temple we observe the chanting of the congregation and the offering of gifts of food to the marigold garland-draped image of Vishnu, Lord of Peace and Truth. We explore the adjacent City Palace (which has been extended over the centuries by each of the ruling maharajas), then jump into a tuk-tuk which weaves through narrow alleyways of the market, narrowly dodging stalls piled high with precariously balanced rainbow-coloured produce.
Dinner on the roof of Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur
Mumbai
From Udaipur it’s a 90-minute flight to Mumbai. We are staying in the historic Palace Wing of the Taj Mahal Palace, built by Jamsetji Tata in 1903 as the first luxury hotel in India. The hotel tour showcases its wall cabinets filled with photographs of all the heads of state and royalty who have stayed at the hotel during the last 115 years. While savouring the Taj’s champagne-fueled afternoon tea experience, we look out at the crowds gathering by the towering Gateway of India, built on the shoreline to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911.
Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai – Poolside
On our final day we visit Mani Bhavan Museum, the house where Mahatma Gandhi resided during his frequent visits to Mumbai, and we stop by Dhobi Ghat, peering over a bridge by Mahalaxmi train station to observe the world’s largest open-air laundry in full operation. We hear the pounding of wet garments being thrashed against the flogging stones, while gazing at the thousands of rows of garments and linens hanging out to dry, swaying in the breeze like giant coloured sails on a ship.
Indeed colour has permeated every visit we have made to each palace, monument and place of worship, where the ever-present rose and marigold petals have brightened every day we have spent in India.
by Amanda Bernstein
The trip was supported on the ground by Cox & Kings, the leading holiday specialists who create luxury tailor-made holidays. Established in 1758, it’s the oldest established travel company in the world with offices across the globe. Organizing high-quality tours chosen and led by experts, destinations include India, Asia, Africa, Latin America, Middle East, Europe, Australasia, Canada and Alaska.
For more information visit Cox and Kings’ site here.
Taj is Indian Hotels Company Limited’s (IHCL) iconic brand, offering the world’s most discerning travelers luxury hotels, palaces, resorts and safari lodges across the world. For more information please visit www.tajhotels.com