LC:M Gieves and Hawkes SS15

Gieves & Hawkes output is always watertight. There is something about being the most respected mainstay on Savile Row that takes you places, and after over 200 years of creating some of the finest bespoke garments on the illustrious Row there is just no letting up. Creative Director Jason Basmajian does much to widen the brands scope this season with a collection that, while heavily reliant upon the ensemble in a world where it often sadly seems rather passé, offers more polished bang for your buck by incorporating more menswear adjuncts. Rural UK coastlines of the deep south were the littoral geographic bearings, think less tropic, more tepid, but nautical nods ranging from blatant Breton stripes, seaside knits and short unfussy trench and maritime duffel coats flourished under this guise.

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The more noticeable informality this season wasn’t at the expense of first-rate clothing, especially when it comes to the type of Gieves & Hawkes client who can appreciate the exotic skinned loafers, matching holdall’s and suede espadrilles. But in the grand scheme of SS15, this was a sharp, contained selection if ever there was one. Most apparent in the items that edged towards eveningwear; classic, but stirred and shaken with a satiny twist, marking an end to what was only Basmajian’s third season at the house. The chief aesthete’s growing sensibility for the brand is increasingly evident though, we’ll certainly be counting down the days to his next peerless addressing of the British summertime.

by Liam Feltham

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