A SIREN sounds through the open space of Yeomanry House, an army training and administration hall, but this is not a drill: it is TOGA‘s autumn-winter 2026 show beginning.
Designed to fit within an ever-developing world, TOGA presents a collection that keeps in stride with the rapid pace of today’s society. Leaning into the idea of the movement of materials and the reconstruction any force, change or pressure can bring to a fabric, Yasuko Furuta finds meaning in the balance of resistance and flexibility.
TOGA’s signature sleek tailoring walked before its audience deconstructed, reworked into cropped blazers with large shirt collars poking out askew, barely attached to their dutiful shirts, and trousers with peeking cutouts designed for everything but stagnancy.
Waists were accentuated with layers upon layers of cardigans, buttoned up, folded and scrunched. Furuta’s long-standing approach to proportionality and silhouettes were retransformed, subtly reworked into a collection worthy of the title “PULL, CRUMPLE, PRESSED”.
Furuta’s interest in juxtapositions bled into the heart of the collection, with sensual silk, sleek leather and soft-to-touch wool being married off to contrasting synthetic fabrics. Faux furs and shearling arm-warmers were paired to tailored suits, soft separates and a delicate sheer dress.
A formal colour palette of black, white and grey were loosened up by bursts of cobalt blue, palm green and burning red, gently softened with notes of cream. Large stone molten brooches were a hero of the show, meeting sponetanous patches of sequins in a shimmering dance.
TOGA has always been multi-faceted and their AW26 collection was no different. Grounded yet experimental, Furuta seamlessly blends the Tokyo-enfused energy of TOGA with London’s modernity, codes and deep desire to adapt.
by Madeleine Ringer