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MFW AW15: Emilio Pucci


Peter Dundas’ references were, quite literally, stellar. Accumulating to tangible trend now, the space references are popping up everywhere on the runways. This renewed fascination for the final frontier, perhaps induced by films like Interstellar and Gravity, often assumes the guise of retro-futurism – fittingly as we are all obsessed with the ‘60s and ‘70s. However, in Pucci’s case the stargazing took an additional astrological turn. Featuring printed Leos, Aries and centaurs amid swirling galaxies on knit sweater dresses, embroidered sweeping capes and billowing silk, the interpretation was reminiscent of the iconic house prints.

Complimenting the monochrome and graphic elements of the collection, deep claret and midnight sky blue were mixed with bright orange, purple and citrus green, clashing in a challenging way. Great floor-grazing velvet coats and wide-legged trousers paired with sheer pussy-bow blouses or intarsia python bikers added warmth, tactility and texture and brought the looks down to earth.

This AW show is rumoured to be the Norwegian designer´s last for the brand, his reasons for leaving yet unknown. Dundas´ Pucci legacy is sexy, groovy glam, yet with a vein of shameless romance – he will be dearly missed.

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by Elisabeth Krohn
Images courtesy of Style.com

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