LESS than a month since Kim Jones’ debut show for Fendi during Couture Fashion Week, the British designer has returned to Milan to unveil his first women’s ready-to-wear collection.
With everyone anticipating what he will bring to the Italian fashion house, the pressure to please the critics and customers has been weighing heavily. But earlier this afternoon, Kim Jones digitally presented the autumn-winter 2021 collection and there is only one word to describe it: spectacular!
What sets Jones apart from other designers today at heritage brands is his innate ability to understand the codes and history of where he is designing at while approaching collections from his own angle. He makes it look easy.
The AW21 collection is not only a new chapter in the well-read book of Fendi but a new chapter for the designer. Ensuring key codes that are embedded in Fendi are kept and that the long legacy of the women who have carried the brand into today are celebrated, Kim Jones took the savoir-faire in one hand and femininity in the other and created an Italian dream.
Taking inspiration from the wardrobes of the five Fendi sisters, Kim Jones explained, “The Fendi family are women of intellect who work hard – and that’s what I wanted to celebrate. A powerful dynasty.”
Looking at the bell sleeves of a mink and bonded suede coat, to the pinstripes found in their workwear and the utilitarian shirt jacket worn by Creative Director of menswear and granddaughter of the Fendi founders Silvia Venturini Fendi, Jones took the essentials and put his spin on them.
Cashmere and camel outerwear that is finished with mink tricots, fringed scarves are translated into draped shirts, and marbled silk dresses with rosette blooms are some of the ingredients to a collection that could define the term ‘luxury’. Jones is inspired by what and who he sees, and with Fendi being such a family-orientated brand, there are really no better muses than the sisters and women at Fendi.
With Karl Lagerfeld being his predecessor, there are truly no bigger shoes to fill. However, understanding the impact and legacy that the German designer left behind is something Jones didn’t want to ignore but rather continue and celebrate. The Karligraphy monogram and Fendi First shoe are reimagined for the new era of Fendi; for example, the monogram is laser cut into suede.
The collection saw a wealth of accessories, but the debut of the Fendi First sees the Fendi monogram tilted into the frame of a clutch coming in all sizes to fit any occasion. New silhouettes of the Way tote and Touch shoulder bag are presented while the iconic Peekaboo and Sunshine Shopper are distorted to bring a sense of new into the accessory realm.
Another new aspect to the world of the Fendi is the introduction of a jewellery range titled Fendi O’Lock by Delfina Delettrez Fendi. Collectively, what a way to make your mark with your first collection.
They say fashion is meant to make you feel something, well Kim Jones made me fall in love with Fendi.
by Imogen Clark