ALL brands want to make their audience think differently about fashion upon seeing their respective shows, but no other brand makes you think the way that Prada does. Season after season, the Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons duet have proposed new and engaging responses to our core understanding of taste, simultaneously inviting a conversation on what drives fashion and how we position relevancy in society. Ways of being, therefore, naturally become a structure of this exchange, and nothing shapes our existence more than history.
“There is romance with the past”, reads the autumn winter 2024 show notes. Delving into the contemporary world through memories of the past, the AW24 Prada show built a mishmash of eras, juxtaposing stereotypical symbols of modern fashion with elements drawn from outfits from the past in order to unpick notions of beauty.
Take the varsity bomber jackets styled on top of shift dresses appliquéd by floral patterns as an example, or the technical rain macs that accompanied court shoes and cat eye frames; these are not necessarily harmonious elements, but under the insightful eye of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, they transform into indispensable combinations.
Yet, despite the rich treasure trove of reference points, Prada stressed an emotional reaction over an intellectual examination. These garments are imbued by experience and our instinctive memory of times of heightened feeling. Miuccia Prada has often delved into the internal conflict between dressing with the carefree spirit of youth and the sophistication of maturity, resulting in designs that straddle both realms.
For AW24, this duality was expressed through the strategic placement of bows, either on the hems of pockets, gracing the backs of skirts, or enveloping certain dresses entirely. By reimagining the conventional symbolism of femininity and youth associated with bows, the very essence of these elements is challenged, leading to a redefinition of our sartorial language.
There is a modesty to AW24 at Prada, with narrowed silhouettes that prioritise simplicity over accentuating the figure. Necklines are elevated, waist bands are lowered, and there is an abundance of layered knits.
It is within the accessories that you can find provocation. Military inspired wide brimmed hats are adorned with a vibrant appliqué of feathers, while bags featuring floral motifs reminiscent of antique porcelain plates are given a rebellious twist with punky leather belted arm bands. Even the models’ unconventional way of carrying their bags – tucked under their arms with a hand placed on their chest – reflects a bold departure from the past, in direct response to the era of clutching iPhones.
This is a collection designed to communicate and express. Through the innovative reinterpretation of the familiar, Prada and Simons adeptly challenge our conventional standards of judgment, offering a fresh perspective on fashion consumption.
by Lily Rimmer