After a century of marrying plush artistry and commercial savvy, Fendi refreshed old classics with a winsome twist for Winter 2025.
EVEN INSIDERS who are paid to track the spate of creative directors comings and goings and brand relaunches might have to think twice before naming a new potential suitor who will aid Silvia Venturini Fendi in creating womenswear offerings — and the current status of the house.
To judge from this collection—the AW25 outing, showcased in honour of the house’s centenary—the ambition to clean the slate and continue writing a new, distinct identity following Kim Jones’ departure seems somewhat close to being realised.
Perhaps understandably, there seems to be some carryover from Jones’ past aestheticism and a tendency towards softness which came in the form of cocoons and peplums that tie and wrap—all shown with flouncy blouses meant to be worn inside cinched waistlines.
That’s a lot of conceptualism for one outing, but it was attractive and certainly appetisible for the house’s broader clientele: simple uptown separates featuring fur trimmings and classic grandeur. Venturini Fendi’s outing focused most of her attention on outerwear for Fall: it’s a category that had success throughout the history of the Maison.
But there were less glam, more intimate pleasures to be had as well, chief among them a coat flared and worn as a dress, with a gold belt that added a plush vein to the design aesthetic. Noble furs also ruled supreme, where patchwork techniques were applied to shearlings that resemble fox, mink and sable—yet they’re not. The codes continue expanding throughout balza skirts, flounced toppers and rounded sleeves which exude an operatic effect.
On the palette front, a climax of colours rises through the lineup, inciting Rome at dusk—tones comprise forest green and laurel, chocolate and petrol blue, stretching to blazing tints such as terracotta, bubblegum and scarlet. Tailoring is layered over jewelled cardigans and deconstructed blazers, adding a vein of prominence and severity to the somehow equally playful cuts.
For men and women, the craftsmanship shines in reversible coats in deerskin and suede, finished with graphic trimmings and intarsias that give a quietly impactful range. In general, there’s an upbeat sophistication about the Fendi characters, with a novelty which—even though it may not have the most immediate appeal—shouldn’t be overlooked. Other highlights in the lineup included colour-blocked pants cut in fuss-free styles.
“When I was offered to work on a collection I said to myself where do I start,” opined Venturini Fendi in a conference pre-show. “I was fascinated and I fell in love with Fendi in 1976 when I realised that my mother’s job was Karl’s first collection, and he was fascinated by the family of women, which made the starting point of this show dedicated to five generations of women who have been part of this beautiful story, making it dreamy and entrenched with emotions.”
Rounding out the offerings were ribbed knitted dresses with a lot of drama on the shoulders. Fendi’s day silhouettes were in keeping with the drift towards a less structured oeuvre. This season, though, it was the pluckier staples that stood out—and that are perhaps starting to give a new incarnation of this storied house a fresher identity.
An identity that certainly made for a boost of feel-good optimism and utter excitement the very moment Sean Paul walked out and delivered a bombastic performance post-show—a buzzy, well-rounded feast for the senses.
by Chidozie Obasi