Gieves and Hawkes at London Collections: Men – AW14

When Glass recently met with Gieves and Hawkes’  inspiring and recently appointed creative director Jason Basmajian, the main theme of our discussion to emerge during our discussion was the brand’s need for modernity and its drive for change.

Taking into consideration the significance of a British heritage brand being present at London Collections: Men, the first job on Basmajian’s to-do list was to ensure that Gieves and Hawkes had some sort of presence at the fashion event. For the second season now, Gieves and Hawkes chose a static presentation – this time taking place at the main galleries at Christie’s auction house, London in which 30 models stood on spot-lit plinths, like living sculptures, to display the brand’s evolving, beautifully made AW14 collection.

Gievews Hawkes

Gieves and Hawkes are a brand bolstered by their relationships with the British Military. Uniforms for past and present members, within all military sectors, are still fitted and dressed by this historical company however there is more than enough space within the British menswear sector for Gieves to take a piece of the action.

Gievews Hawkes

Key colours this season are khaki, olive, racing green, tones of navy, air force blue and tobacco. Tweeds, twills, Donegal’s and country checks are re-imagined for a more graphic palette. Luxurious houndstooth and marled yarns come richly to life alongside velvets, cashmere and alpaca with an emphasis on fabrics that look rugged but are soft and sensuous to the touch.

Gievews Hawkes

Casualwear is anchored in Savile Row elegance and introduces leather bombers with shearling collars over hand-knit cashmere sweaters in military inspired cable and rib. The coat is king this season, exemplified by a depth and variety of styles – from a reworked Admiral’s Boat Cloak through to an officer’s belted greatcoat, to a shearling collared greatcoat.

Gievews Hawkes

British bench-made shoes revisit favoured styles. Two-tone Ghillie brogues and shearling-lined pebble-grain boots blur the boundary between town and country. A double monk-strap shoe is remodelled in alligator, the Derby is hi-shine and cap-toes are hand-burnished. The fine skins used for the shoe collection inspire a new range of luggage, briefcases and leather accessories that bring textural interest to work and travel.

Gievews Hawkes

The collection bounds from strength to strength and, with such beautiful pieces and focused creativity, the brand is truly becoming a polished jewel within the London Collection’s crown.

by Calvin Baillie

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