ALTHOUGH inspired by the ballerina Maya Plisetskaya, there were no diaphanous tulle skirts or wrap cardigans in sight, rather a collection that embodies the grace and delicacy of the dancer, a quiet and subtle homage. A calm, yet powerful and understated tone was present throughout the show, a testament to the approach Gabriela Hearst takes to business.
Impelled to create after reading I, Maya Plisetskaya, Hearst was wholly inspired by the style and tenacity of the Bolshoi prima ballerina. Rising to become a star in the face of true adversity (her father was murdered by the Stalin regime and she spent her time as an infant imprisoned with her mother in a gulag), Plisetskaya exhibits the purest form of inner strength – a quality greatly admired by Hearst.
Dedicated to sustainability, due to her belief that “Climate change is the most important issue facing us today”, the designer opted to use recycled fabrics where possible. This extended beyond just her collection as the cushions on the audience’s seats were constructed from the collection’s leftover wool and cashmere trimmings, with the intention that guests would take them home.
A key defining point of the show was its sophisticated and flawless tailoring; Heart’s suits have become a staple for women wanting to assert their power, whilst retaining their chicness. Although they were less prevalent during her last collection, she is back to remind us of her sartorial magic. The show opened with two sharp double-breasted coats embellished with Uruguayan coin buttons and a reimagined coin belt.
What followed was a flurry of silks, leathers, cashmeres, knits and quilts. The show had us longing for pillowy softness and the comfort of knitwear. A demure and underplayed palette conspired to leave us transfixed on the finery of her collection.
Mastery and grace shone through Gabriela Hearst’s collection, a true attestation to her motivations and successful executions of such.
by Robyn Ngan