UPON projected freedom of flowing waterfall imagery, Proenza Schouler present their spring summer 2023 collection that encapsulates the sensual and tactile qualities of life. Using water as the main motif in this series it helps to inform us on the personal narrative and connection with the house’s designers – Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez.
Not only just seen in the garments and production, hair and makeup by Guido Palau and Diane Kendal follow the ‘wet look’ trend we have all raved about this last year. With incredibly sleek styles and glowy skin, the look is seamlessly matched with collection and gives that immaculate glass feel.
Carried from Lazaro’s Latin roots, the collection also boasts some fiery qualities that have been simultaneously matched with the grit of Jack’s American history – the blend of the two help to create a more urban story for 2023.
The motive behind the collection is to capture a well lived summer that creates lasting memories. Whilst embodying the sense of freedom that warmer month’s expose, the series can’t help but place a smile of your face as you reminisce in memorable nights and new experiences.
On trend, tactile textures roam freely throughout the presentation as we spot elasticated terry tweed, reflective techno leather, moulded lace, and metallic hand crotchet. Light knitwear forms are continued from the colder seasons as they wrap and shape the body, and sometimes detonate into eccentric fringes to exaggerate movement. Ruffles are key here as they expand from the body and wrists, almost as if creating a symbol of volume in wild summer evenings.
The colour palette of the collection explores bright acidic hints that have been toned by contemporary uses of black and white. Although the sun encourages colour upon colour, the garments here expose a wearable aspect for all year round.
Models wear chunky, thick-soled, padded platforms, to bring a grounded element to the scene, and a dramatic factor to what’s on top. As we have previously seen from the house, silhouettes are centre to the garments as contours of the body are encouraged keenly. With this SS show allowing for more movement than before, natural curves of a woman’s body shape are still key in shaping the clothes themselves.
Familiar and iconic codes of Proenza Schouler are incredibly transparent in this collection and reach out to past shows for balance. By incorporating the corporeal and carnal qualities in life, this series brings a real excitement for a countdown of what next year’s summer has to offer.
by Alicia Tomkinson