Paris Menswear AW15: Lanvin

Lanvin are perhaps better equipped to do this season’s ubiquitous approach to understated luxury than any other menswear offshoot brand out there. There is something about their brand identity that says dark brooding masculine glamour, if that can fit into one metaphysical mouthful that is. Along with menswear advisor Lucas Ossendrijver, Elbaz created a luxe uniformed look for the young style-conscious male.

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Opting to stick to generally traditional materials for the bulk of the collection, the design team let bold swabs of snakeskin and alpaca make the more metro-sexualised statements. Putting together each look with some of the most trained eyes in the industry was an obvious advantage, so the emphasis on high-waists in an AW15 Paris first was executed in its finest form yet. Doubled with breezy overcoats and oversized t-shirts, the fitted trousers exhibited ten times more appeal.

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Sexuality has now unfortunately become something that most designers are afraid to allude to or deal with seriously in fashion design nowadays but at Lanvin, Elbaz does, and certainly so with his latest menswear spread. The darkness, the uncliched rock n’roll sensibility and above all else, the sensual fabrics and overall air about the ensembles (and models) made this presentation an invigorating one.

by Liam Feltham

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