Paris Menswear AW15: Maison Margiela

Opening the collection with a variety of leather looks, Margiela displayed both bold and subtle uses of the fabric, ranging from teal trench coats to black trousers. A consistent theme was oversized garments, beginning with heavy, flowing jackets and developing to flared, tailored trousers.

Using layering to build up each outfit, Margiela incorporated waistcoats and undercoats into a strong section of the show, allowing for the juxtaposition of colour and pattern. The wide leg trousers were atypical of tailored design and accompanied with a high-waist look, added a 70s vibe to the collection. Styles were architecturally designed to hang loose around the legs and arms, but were pinned in at the waist to create a more feminine appearance.

The latter half provided us with the eccentric side of Margiela, as he supported a more artistic approach, using a combination of metallics and striking pattern to add a dramatic edge. A number of items turned into canvases, with paint design printed onto waistcoats in an abstract fashion.

Margiella’s portrayal of masculine and feminine styles in fashion and the exploration of visual techniques have broken the boundaries of traditional dress. With a slight retro inspiration and a nod to abstract art, Margiela’s collection incorporates a strong mix of unconventional design, making for a sublime show.








by Emma Walsh

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