A new branch of 28˚-50˚ Wine Workshop and Kitchen has opened on Maddox Street, just off Regent Street. It’s a third for the team and a genius choice of location. The area is polarised into high street and high end, and so are most of the eating options. But 28˚-50˚ is an excellent choice for in-betweeners – somewhere above the ordinary but which doesn’t leave you out of pocket.
We ate an early dinner upstairs, in an airy and spacious room of exposed pipe, metal and brick work. A few people sat at a central seafood bar, while downstairs is more cosy and intimate and where the wine events are held.
Upstairs at 28˚-50˚
Everything just worked. The bread was fresh, warm and crispy. My deep-fried squid, always a good marker, was excellent – light and crunchy fingers with a gorgeously tart dip. Aubergine, so often a watery mess, was intense and satisfying, served with lemon crème fraiche and sweet peppers. Smoked salmon with horseradish yoghurt looked pretty served on a slate and hit all the right spots. Our mains followed suite, all around £16. Rich and meltingly soft lamb shanks, and the gutsiest mushroom risotto I’ve ever had. Wine was by the glass, carafe or bottle, but we had a few glasses recommended by the sommelier which made it more fun.
This place is run like clockwork, by people who know what they’re doing. It’s smart but inviting, confident without being pretentious. I will definitely be back.
by Vicky Paterson
Two-course lunch £15.95
Three-courses £18.95
www.2850.co.uk
17-19 Maddox Street, W1S 2QH
T: 020 7495 1505
E: maddox@2850.co.uk