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PFW AW15: Akris


Akris’ Albert Kreimier is perhaps one of the best examples of a designer who understands that minimalist chic doesn’t have to be all style and no substance. This season in Paris he accentuated his tricks of the trade for the Swiss label with a dusty off-white succession of design staples that hinged upon the jacket but thankfully didn’t obscure his latest leisure-luxe creations underneath.

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Adapting the jacket by fixing lapels this way and that, expanding them here and there and cocooning trims in shaggy furs, A/W daywear is an authoritative uniform for the Akris woman. Furthermore, Kreimier flaunted his textile-tech savvy ways to the best of his abilities by embossing and de-bossing lacquered lengths of scaly fabrics.

Beyond that he decided to go one step further, laser-cutting dainty breathing holes within the grayscale pattern to add some depth and keep us longing for the kind of arcane luxury the brand excels in. As for the rest, he safeguarded that aforementioned substance by jazzing up other looks with glitzy sheaths of steely sequins and synching up some ensembles with fur scarves.

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The handful of final looks in jet black with come-hither voile segments represented a strong move, with day transitioning to night with as much nocturne wonder as any creature of the night craves. Something tells us Kreimier himself has a rather reticent wild side in light of this and one that he can tap into to ensure a collection has not only got that same style and substance, but some sass too.

by Liam Feltham

Images courtesy of Style.com

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