EXPLORING alternate ways of observation for autumn-winter 2023, Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu returned to close Paris Fashion Week another season.
It’s hard to start with a point of view for this series, as there are multiple, and each acts as a probe towards intervention and invention. The main focus centres solely on the instinctive process of looking and seeing, using different perspectives to curate a completely unique collection for each viewer, “Looking is a window to thinking.”
With Miu Miu’s fine workmanship, a tool is designed that helps transform a person’s perception as proportions, silhouettes and shapes are altered. They’re further exaggerated by the layering of fabrics and fused together to create a great relationship with the body. Technique and materialisation expertly change how the outfits are visually read, leading to a different rapport of how we understand them.
Familiar items of clothing are spotted throughout as we’re glad to see the return of twinsets, knee-length skirts, and hooded sweatshirts, each owning a unique movement around the figure. How the garments act on the wearer is further shown through a delicate element of transparent chiffon opening windows to expose the underneath. For example, clothes which are usually out of sight are brought to light as we see exposed stockings and overlaid dresses intertwine within the collection.
To set the scene of this divine display, an installation by South Korean artist Geumhyung Jeong plays alongside the stage and sees performance-based pieces which centre around her body alone, examining the relationship between contours and clothing.
A star studded roster graced the catwalk, including X’s Mia Goth to open the show and The Crown’s Emma Corrin to close. Other notable features came from Rick Brakus, Ethel Cain, Noen Eubanks, Amelia Gray, Sam Nivola, Mame Bineta Sane, and Zaya Wade.
The neutral yet tonal collection is definitely one to keep an eye out for as we escape the summery months later this year, and with pops of neon, highly saturated colours throughout, we can keep hold of that warmer energy for a tiny bit longer.
by Alicia Tomkinson