PFW SS19: Maison Margiela

JOHN Galliano is talking about a new generation – one where traditional values are questioned and clothes are not tailored to gender. Such an approach was clear yesterday in Paris, where the designer unveiled a co-ed collection for the first time under his role at the house of Margiela. Clothing took an elevated turn – through purpose misplacement, sliced structures and an upgrade of stereotypical styling. With it, an expression of faithful modernity was found.

A sense of experimentalism was prominent throughout. That was to be felt through the semi-technological takeover, introduced by Galliano in Margiela’s latest couture collection for AW18. For his latest edition, mini-screens were included as accessories, from handbag add-ons to ankle attachments. They displayed the house’s latest fragrance ad – establishing a total inception which screamed the house’s approach to mutiny very clearly. Marketing well done, Galliano.

As for the garments, they were as sharp and striking as one would have anticipated. Simple suits styled with golden metallic bustier tops, vinyl tops (or perhaps dresses) and trousers, two-toned slip dresses and asymmetric puffa jackets. Arms were not a visible priority for Galliano – many outerwear looks concealed them, instead constructed through broad, shapely forms that emitted a sense of surrealism over typical sartorialism. Feathers also fronted a handful of looks, embellished atop pastel, tulle tops and oversized, floor-length coats. Many coats were sliced in structure, transitioning them towards contemporary capes fitting for any eccentric fashion lover.

So what was Galliano’s statement for his first co-ed Margiela collection? A blurring of gender. As far as the designer is concerned, the top priority for dressing is having the ability to showcase a burst of energy through material. So much so that it slices through your garments, apparently. Galliano is continuing to search for alternative forms of beauty through the codes of Margiela, and at this moment, he’s thriving more than ever. Bravo, sir.

by Faye Fearon

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