DESCRIBED as a “cross-cultural exchange” in its show notes, the Kenzo autumn-winter 2024 fashion show was a demonstration of the brand’s eclectic, elegant style.
To usher in the new season, Nigo – Kenzo’s creative director- wanted to intertwine non-Western influences into the collection to bring an element of newness to the French capital.
Having previously looked to City Pop as inspiration for its spring-summer 2024 collection, it comes as no surprise that Nigo decided to draw upon musical and cinematic references for the latest seasonal offering.
In particular, the creative director was interested in George Lucas’ use of samurai films – such as the work of Akira Kurosawa – which aided him in his creation of the Star Wars universe.
Nigo has also decided to pay homage to late musicians Ryuichi Sakamoto and Yukihiro Takahashi. Sakamoto was particularly inspired by Johann Sebastian Bach and Claude Debussy, whereas Yukihiro Takahashi was a member of the Japanese electronic band Yellow Magic Orchestra.
As a result, models paraded down the runway accompanied by an original soundtrack – made by Cornelius – inspired by Yellow Magic Orchestra.
In a captivating intersection of film and style, Nigo explores traditional Japanese silhouettes, while also subverting them to allude to sci-fi-related uniforms and forms. For example, a kimono coat is heavily influenced by a warrior cape, a plissé dress mirrors the lines of a space fiction heroine’s cape and cargo elements appear in refined cuts.
As the collection progresses, it becomes more and more clear that Eastern and Western dress codes have been seamlessly united in Nigo’s cinematic universe.
Another showcase of Nigo’s expertise is the gakuran schoolboy suit, which has been carefully designed to combine sharp and relaxed lines. The gakuran uniforms – worn by Japanese pupils since 1873 – are inspired by silhouettes from the West and pay tribute to Yellow Magic Orchestra’s stage costumes.
As a result, utilitarian elements become a key component in the new collection. Collarless blazers have been included as a nod to Nigo’s student wardrobe, meanwhile, deconstructed denim workwear perpetuates the focus on functionality.
Moreover, Nigo has also taken inspiration from Karakusa – an ancient pattern native to Central Asia by way of China and traditionally used on Japanese Furoshiki wrapping cloth. The pattern has been reinterpreted in print and beaded forms to further marry the East with the West.
Another showcase of cultural union is the Kenzo Furoshiki bag, which utilises the Japanese art of wrapping and knotting in soft calf leather and textured suede. Sci-fi elements reappear with the Kenzo Discover bag – a men’s accessory fitted with tactical hardware and transformed into jacket bags, a one-strap backpack and a regular backpack.
Futuristic, fun and informed, Kenzo’s latest collection underlines Nigo’s confident design approach and the brand’s effortlessly cool allure.
by Sophie Richardson