A RETURN to nineties minimalism, AMI by Alexandre Mattiussi proposes a stripped back aesthetic for spring-summer 2024, with a line of designs that emote sensuality and sophistication, all while exemplifying the beautiful craftsmanship the designer has become enamoured for.
It seems every few months the discussion surrounding the revival of mainstream minimalism is raised once again. A contrast to the new roaring 20s ideal many proposed after the Covid-19 pandemic lockdowns, it seems the sleek sexuality of mid-90s clothing has continued to imprint on a new generation of designers.
Though a first we may be bombarded with mental screenshots of Kate Moss in Calvin Klein ads and Jil Sander daydreams, Mattiussi has taken these elements and enhanced them with a beautiful elegance that translates to the modern day.
Fluid column dresses, tailored Bermuda shorts and structured shirts create an outline of a new capsule wardrobe, one that is certainly timeless yet poetically impactful: “I want to simplify the superfluous, so I can concentrate exclusively on the essential — and more specifically the collection, the wardrobe. Everything else is a distraction,” mentions the designer.
An off-duty sexuality is channelled through draped halter neck tops, super-short shorts and mini skirts and tank tops paired with wide leg trousers, while sequin numbers and knee high metallic leather boots add an essence of modern glamour.
As always with any AMI collection, the tailoring ids a true highlight, and is perpetuated through a series of blazers, trench coats, and other suiting separates that cement the brand as experts in the field.
Though the colour scheme remains largely monochromatic mix of black and grey tones interspersed in an earthy palette, the rhythm is disrupted by repeated infusions of periwinkle blues and dusty lilacs that bounce off of the backdrop of the Tennis Club de Paris.
by Ben Sanderson