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.From her humble beginnings through to her meteoric rise to the top of the fashion hierarchy, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s innovative and ingenious methods have shaped the fashion of a century. Challenging contemporary views of how clothing should fit and flatter, championing freedom of movement and individuality, Chanel stood firm in the belief that there should be no restrictions. And in 1932 she marked a change in the course of history for jewellery and its design.
It is now 80 years since the launch of the exquisite Bijoux de Diamants, Chanel’s first jewellery line, and the fashion house is celebrating its longevity as inventors, creators and pioneers with a new anniversary collection. The Bijoux de Diamants moved away from the restrictive, armour-like jewellery previously on offer. Finding her inspiration in the beauty and simplicity of the night skies of Paris, Chanel created multifaceted jewellery using diamonds of every possible variety in the most delicate of settings. The collection was clasp-free, with pieces that could change in an instant from a necklace to a bracelet to a brooch.
Director of Fine Jewellery at Chanel, Benjamin Comar, explains more.
What were the defining features of the collection, and from where did the inspiration for it come?
During the Great Depression the diamond market suffered hugely. In 1932 diamond companies asked Gabrielle Chanel to design a high jewellery collection to try and relaunch the market. So she designed a collection of 35 pieces. These pieces were inspired by five different objects. For the first two, Gabrielle used an astrological theme, as she was very superstitious; the ‘cométe’ (star), which was inspired by the sky of Paris at night, and the sun. The three other objects were more in line with couture: the Fringes, the Bow and the Feather.
How did it differ from the costume jewellery previously designed by Chanel?
Her costume jewellery was designed for the purpose of accessorising the garments. This was really new, completely different designs. Her previous work didn’t include diamonds at all.
Why 80 years? Is that significant in itself?
We couldn’t wait for 100 years, that’s 20 years from now! It’s a celebration because we are happy to be in a position to do this after 80 years. We wanted to create a bigger collection in tribute to our customers who have made it possible for us to be a major player in this industry. It’s a great success for fine jewellery.
What distinguishes this new anniversary collection from the original 1932 collection?
We used the five themes but with new inspirations and created totally different products. We added a sixth theme, the Lion. The lion represents the star sign of Gabrielle Chanel. We keep the same values of freedom, versatility and wearability, which was very innovative at the time, but the designs are obviously very different.
How has jewellery design changed since then? Are there any new innovations?
The way we work is even cleaner now but for the most part the techniques used to create the jewellery have not changed. The job remains craftsman orientated. The weight of tradition is heavy, but the pieces have become even lighter. Gabrielle introduced a type of wearable jewellery that was very different from the stiff high jewellery available at the time. We try to maintain that.
Has women’s style and how jewellery is worn changed in the 80 years since the birth of the Bijoux de Diamants?
Yes. Now women are more modern. They need their jewellery to be versatile for different occasions on the same day. They are more active so the pieces need to be more wearable and feminine. Jewellery is not a trophy any more, now it’s more for an independent woman.
Do you think Chanel has changed or moved forward since then?
I did not work for the company then, but yes, I think it has. Chanel relaunched jewellery in 1993 and we are now a major player in the industry. This is the biggest collection of fine jewellery we have ever created, with 80 pieces. That shows where we are now and the step forward we have made.
In this volatile economy, do you feel there is still a place for jewellery of this nature?
Yes, there is still a place for high jewellery. There are more and more people becoming interested in it, and that will hopefully continue. We are happy with the reaction to the new pieces and in this volatile time people trust true brands with true values. We represent that. We always work on the patrimony. It’s not pieces for pieces sake. The creations are symbolic.
If you could pick one quintessential Chanel woman who evokes the essence of your fine jewellery, who would it be?
All modern women evoke Chanel. I wouldn’t like to single any ladies out; every woman should wear Chanel Fine Jewellery!
by Sarah Tweed
Taken from the Glass Magazine archive – Issue 10 – Lust