IT WAS a great meal but I can’t tell you what it was or anything about the restaurant as I’d dined in total darkness. No, there hadn’t been a power cut and I don’t have some weird compulsion to go around in a sleep mask.
I’d chosen to try out Geneva’s latest dining craze, Dans le Noir? at the Ritz Carlton Hotel de la Paix, an experience promoted to sharpen the taste buds and deepen one’s appreciation of having eyes to see. Pointedly, diners are led into a pitch-black space by blind waiters, who tell you where things are and serve you.
At first, I found it hard to shovel the food onto my fork but as no one could see what I was doing I will confess to taking a few short cuts.
Mandarin Oriental, Geneva
It was a fun event and a promising start to my stay in Geneva, a city perhaps burdened by its reputation as an international conference and business centre. The local tourist board’s Unexpected Geneva summer campaign is looking to showcase the place’s lighter side and I was determined to find it. It was not that difficult.
Located on Lake Geneva at its junction with the River Rhône and cradled by the Alps and Jura Mountains, Geneva’s handsome looks are enhanced by its well preserved mediaeval and 19th century architecture. Despite being Switzerland’s second largest city, it also has an attractively sedate air about it.
Cathédrale St Pierre dominates the Old Town
My base was the sleek and stylish Mandarin Oriental Hotel, discreetly wedged in a prime spot overlooking the river and within walking distance of many of the main tourist attractions, not least Geneva’s most visible landmark, the Jet D’Eau. As part of a guided tour, it took a few minutes to reach the charms of the Old Town, a hilly maze of cobbled streets dominated by the 12th century Cathédrale St Pierre.
Vineyards, Domaine Les Perrières
On the way back, we passed numerous chocolate shops – like watch-making, Geneva is renowned for its artisanal chocolatiers. Less known is its winemaking tradition. To find out more, I boarded a tuktuk for a trip to a wine tasting session at one of Geneva’s 80 vineyards. At the 230-year-old Domaine Les Perrières I sampled some fine wines made with local grape varieties chasselas and gamay before surveying the bourgeoning vinefields themselves.
Sight seeing on Lake Geneva
The following day was perfect weather for a cruise on Lake Geneva. Our boat’s sumptuous wood-panelled restaurant, where I ate a leisurely lunch, was reminiscent of a bygone era and I half expected Hercules Poirot to suddenly pop out of the ether. Along the way, we passed sunbathers and even a few swimmers taking a dip in the startingly clear waters.
Soaring over Geneva in a hot air balloon
The next time I ate I was 4,000 feet in the air, enjoying a thrilling ride in a hot air balloon piloted by Gayle of Ballons Du Léman. From here Geneva looked tiny and the snow-capped Alps temptingly close as the balloon floated imperceptibly on the breeze.
As we began a slow descent people waved from their back gardens at what must have been a dramatic sight. The trip of a lifetime was rounded off with a glass of champagne as the setting sun put on a colourful light show.
Geneva waterfront at night
The idyllic rustic restaurant, Auberge D’Hermance, which I reached by speedboat for an al fresco meal, is famous for its poulet en croute de sel and did not disappoint. Indeed, bubbly headwaiter Patrick proudly revealed that the former king of Spain, Juan Carlos, is a fan. Realistically, there was really no better way to end such a break than a calming yoga session in the pretty lakeside park of Jardin Anglais.
by Angela Cobbinah
Rooms at the Mandarin Oriental Geneva start at 750 CHF
As part of its Unexpected Geneva summer campaign, Geneva Tourism is providing a Summer Transport Card to anyone who books accommodation in the city between June 15 and September 15, offering free public transport and a 30% discount on a range of activities. Visitors are also in with the chance of winning one of 12 Golden Tickets and with it the experience of hot air balloon rides and more.