EVEN though Antonio Berardi stated that there was no specific reference or inspiration behind his SS17 collection, it was rather revisiting ideas “previously discarded or forgotten”, there was a big focus on the figure and femininity and its duality.
The figure was enhanced by fitted trousers and jackets accentuating the waist, arguably one of the best attributes of the female figure, all black looks leaving the attention to the body itself, corsets and waist belts sometimes wrapped around the shoulders or/and the neck as well.
The jackets represented the duality of femininity probably the most. The female strength being represented by harder fabrics then mixed with voluminous chiffon sleeves and back expressing their tender softer side. It was also about the contrast of materials and the fitted versus airy, in Berardi’s case it was usually within one garment.
Tailored trouser suits were contrasted by more classically feminine dresses with feather detailing which also appeared on the sides of trousers. A buttoned-up shirt was worn with an encrusted brocade corset and business-appropriate trouser suits had embellishment creeping up the legs.
As Berardi didn’t have any real direction this season, this collection really focused on the materials and techniques he used. Jacquard floral suits with ombre effect, rich brocades along with the heavily embroidered and embellished pieces were among the more standing out looks. The colour palette was kept very classic though – grey, navy, white and black – with the exception of violet and peach.
by Sara Hesikova
Images courtesy of TCS
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