JIL Sander is a house celebrated for simple clothing. This afternoon, that celebration continued as its creative directors – Lucie and Luke Meier – revealed its SS19 collection. Centred around a colour scheme based predominantly on earthly, natural tones – a minimalist uniform was their vision for the upcoming season. Through a feminine force of garments that were tailored to precision, Milan Fashion week opened with a strong start.
The show started with suited statements. The Meier design duo opted to construct clothing around a boxed silhouette – from light teal tops to straight-cut shirt jackets. Both constructions were styled atop loose, effortless trousers. Amid a Milanese backdrop of an old, tiled factory, working women with style surfaced. The primary implication? This was the modern militant look, and femininity flourished through garments that were acutely aware of the basic codes of sartorialism. Attitudes of androgyny lay at the collection’s forefront, proposing the question of how femininity can really be defined through fashion today. In the eyes of the Meier’s – it is not through overt florals, but rather, overt and unrestricted essentials.
But in terms of materials, the Meier’s were in favour of all. Knitted numbers soon followed, materialised through luxury, long dresses that elongated the body through high neck structures. Yet the Spring/Summer foreground was still present through the lack of sleeves and pastel palette which weaved pieces together – from lucid lemons to light oranges. Sensual touch? Certainly – and in keeping with Sande’s acclaimed codes of subtle aestheticism. Other key highlights that met such expectations included simple white shirts, flowing tunic dresses and floor-length skirts finished through a fine, mesh material.
It was through the accessories and uses of decoration that Lucie and Luke Meier injected an edge. Namely: the knee-high, skin tight sock boots that left wearers with little room, safe for the open toe finish. Handbags were finished in hues from white and beige to electric blue and popping red. A detail of their placement: they were mainly held at the side from beneath, as opposed to handles. Clearly, purpose was not just for practicality, but so too for a stylish accessory. It was a fitting hold to finish a collection that was topped with the occasional graphic detail and a constant emittance of elegance. The verdict – Milan Fashion Week is immediately impressive.
by Faye Fearon
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