HAVING spent over two decades helming the business, it comes as no surprise that Jack McCollough and Lázaro Hernández have perfected their idea of the Proenza Schouler woman.
While many fashion houses constantly strive to follow and create new trends, the two creative directors have found comfort in looking to their past collections for the latest seasonal offering.
Over the past twenty years, there have certainly been times when the brand has created novel silhouettes and forms, but now, the designers understand that the best ideas evolve and mature with time.
For autumn-winter 2024, Proenza Schouler has tapped into the juxtaposition between private and public.
“How does one insulate themselves from the cacophony of the moment while still finding a way to engage, be present, to create and evolve? How does looking in bolster what we put out?” are questions posed by the collection’s show notes. And, upon first glance, the collection does explore this delicate dichotomy.
Drawing upon conventions of quiet luxury, the collection oozes confidence and sophistication. However, it wouldn’t be Proenza Schouler without a subversive flair. Long, elegant silhouettes are formed with soft, flowing fabrics.
Meanwhile, textures and surfaces are concealed and revealed as sheer, gauzy fabrics weave and entwine in subtle homage to the brand’s spring-summer 24 collection. The most obvious reference to the brand’s past collections makes an appearance in the form of denim.
As a continuation from SS24, the fabric is seen in a new wash and broken print to reiterate the creative directors’ gentle progression from season to season.
Similarly, accessories are placed at the forefront of the latest collection. The clothes and bags effortlessly pair together to create a holistically elegant yet edgy look. The result is a series of timeless and well-rounded pieces, all working together in harmony to fulfil the needs of the customer and their wardrobes.
The new Silo Bag is featured in smooth, soft leather and detailed knotted option alongside Eel and faux Ostrich renditions of the City, Flip and Bond Bags. They’re adaptable, versatile and immediately wearable – which is everything the directors were aiming for with this collection.
Shoes are also not to be ignored. Maintaining an emphasis on practicality, boots, sandals and loafers all remain low and grounded. Adorned and embellished with straps and ties, the shoes explore the same contrast between a need for display and, inversely, a need for discretion.
Having constructed a collection so aligned with its customer, Proenza Schouler continues to craft dazzling pieces suitable for any occasion.
by Sophie Richardson